Hey there! It’s starting to feel like we’re really becoming a proper motorcycle shop, isn’t it? We still have a long way to go before we’re back to normal operations, but I’m going to keep polishing things bit by bit.
The ZRX 1100 has already been around for about 30 years now. I still thought it was a recent model, but before you know it, it’s become a classic. I haven’t checked, but there are probably a lot of discontinued parts and missing components out there.
So we’re going to replace the consumables as part of the inspection.
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This time we’re also replacing the MEZ M9RR tires.
Tire prices have been rising noticeably lately. Back in the early 2000s, I remember you could get the top spec tires for around 40,000 yen for both front and rear.
Track riding is going to become even more expensive going forward. Street riding and ownership have truly become an adult hobby.
The J-TRIP frame stand is exceptionally excellent
If you fix the front with chocks, you can also use it for rear maintenance. Around the swingarm and such, you’d be surprised how much work is involved without a center stand.
With this frame stand, you can lift the rear in no time, so the workability is really excellent.
It’s important that the part where you attach the frame stand is as long as possible and not curved. If it comes off while you’re lifting the rear, it’s seriously not funny (*´ω｀*)
If you’re considering purchasing one, carefully examine the shape of the under-tube and where it attaches before buying.
In the case of a hollow axle, I just push a long screwdriver through and pull the shaft out as is. That way only the shaft comes out, and the collar/wheel/caliper support all stay in place.
The shaft comes out smoothly, so you don’t have to worry about collars and caliper supports rolling around. Love might not save the planet, but… love is everything, right?
With the frame stand lifting it, the wheel is also easier to remove.
If you improve the ease of work, I think you can significantly reduce the chances of scratching things.
This wheel helper tool is also quite excellent. You don’t have to huff and puff when inserting the axle shaft. I think it’s smarter to work without sweating, rushing, or panicking.
When removing and attaching wheels, I use a warmer cover (wheel cover). I work with care to minimize damage.
Replacing tires with a manual tire changer
The rim guard on the tire changer was worn out, so I ordered a replacement before moving. This was the first time using the new one, and it was really great.
Once it gets deformed and stops working properly, you should replace it right away. It was like having a brand new tool, and tire replacement went very smoothly.
We clean off the tire debris thoroughly and then apply resin coating. I used to use Plexus and similar products, but new chemicals are being released all the time these days.
Recently, I’ve been loving this Hyper Resin! I use it to coat the inside of the wheel. Hopefully it won’t get too dirty next time.
Nobody sees the inside of the wheel, but if it’s my own bike, I clean it even on customer bikes.
It doesn’t change performance at all, but I think it’s better to do things that feel good mentally.
Ideally, you’d want to replace the coolant about once every two years.
The coolant is constantly cycling between ambient temperature and around 100 degrees, so it’s under pretty harsh conditions. If the cooling passages use iron, they’ll rust easily.
If you’ve never replaced the coolant since purchase, there’s a possibility the cooling passages are completely shot.
Got the inspection renewed at Sodegaura Land Transport Bureau
I left at 8 AM and was back at the shop by 10:30 AM. It’s about an hour each way. With gas and highway tolls, it costs about 3,000 yen for the round trip, so I might need to think about this.
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