THE Oil-Cooled! GSX-R1100J Non-Running Bike Revival? Let’s Make Good Use of the 190,000 Yen Crowdfunding Plan!

Actually, the shop “has a phone.”
Huh? That’s obvious, right???

But since I haven’t told anyone, I don’t get calls…
But today, mysteriously, the phone rang, so I picked it up“That mysterious phone call”
“From Tokyo Electric Power…”said the lady.

If I’m being rude about this kind of workI think it’s something people do.
Definitely without any sense of accomplishment or fulfillment for the person themselves, and probably nobody’s happy about it either…
“When I was in Tokyo, I got these calls like crazy”

SomehowI found myself remembering Tokyo after a long time…

Also…
“It’s nice that no flyers come in the mailbox at all!”

Now let me continue with the work. (*´ω｀*)Hehe

Let’s forcibly overhaul the front fork and stem

The oil in a front fork that’s aged over timesmells similar to differential oil, doesn’t it?
The workshop still smelled the next morning.

Let’s finish it up nicely with Reborn wet blasting

Clear coat? It’s gotten pretty tired and the corrosion has progressed quite a bit.
With the old wet blasting, this condition would have been quite a struggle,
but with Reborn wet blasting, it’s a breeze.

This is how it ends up looking like brand new.
I often hear people wanting to keep this clean condition for as long as possible.

Any paint will eventually deteriorate and corrode over time, so it won’t last forever.

I can handle some of it myself,
but my approach is to just wet blast it again if it corrodeswhich seems to be the most cost-effective way to keep it looking nice.

The stem came out looking nice like this too.
It’s cleaner than brand new now (*´ω｀*)Hehe

Proper polishing of the inner tubes makes them less likely to leak

Having a big lathe is really efficient, isn’t it?
You can restore the chrome shine just by spinning the inner tube on the lathe and polishing it with Scotch-Brite.

The mirror-like shiny areas are basically where the oil seal rubs.
Just finishing this with Scotch-Brite to a semi-mirror finish significantly improves durability.

The inner tube condition was better than I expected, so I’m glad.

No runout or bending, so it’s reusable.
I polish the inside of the inner tube with my favorite Vikan pipe brush and a Makita power drill.
It gets clean much faster than doing it by hand.
This is no time to be scrubbing away by hand.

By the way, this Vikan pipe brush is incredibly durable—I’ve been using it for 10 years already.
Denmark really does it right! I bought it for the convenience and design, but it’s such a great product, so give it a try.

I have various sizes, and I think it’s good to buy them one at a time.
Even when used with cutting oil, there’s no shedding and it’s surprisingly durable, so it’s really great.

The cylinder rod fixing bolt is finally discontinued

For now, since the condition is good, I’d like to reuse it this time.
Since it’s discontinued, I need to look for a replacement just in case.

Lately there are tons of cases like this, and work doesn’t progress as smoothly as I’d like.
On the flip side,maybe all these troublesome things are why work keeps piling up

M14-P1.5

Total length 32.76mm, head 7.86mm—it seems a bit low-profile.
The length under the head is about 25mm.

M14 low-profile is a bit of a hassle.

Found from the junk pile—a Zephyr 750 that’s a perfect match!

For front forks, I keep all the ones I’ve overhauled in the past as used stock on one side.
This kind of real-world data is really valuable.
If you throw it away, it’s just garbage,but “if you sort it properly, it becomes data.”

If we can share this kind of information with the world,
fewer people would waste their time, and work would become more efficient.
“The difference between knowing and not knowing isn’t that big.”
Please make good use of it.

Thinking about work that will be useful in the future (*´ω｀*)

Variable fork springs differ in their up-and-down orientation depending on the bike.

There are differences in diameter and winding direction, which are only documented in the service manual.
If you assemble the spring in the opposite winding direction, the oil level changes slightly due to volume.
If that’s intentional, it’s fine,
but if you want to keep it “original,”you’ll want to understand this properly.

Lately I’ve been checking the manual carefully and stamping the spring accordingly.
This makes it easier for me to understand, and I think it reduces mistakes even if someone else disassembles it later.

If you think about the future in all your work, it’s kind to everyone

Let me include the service data for reference

That’s how it is.

Suzuki’s anti-dive istricky with wave washers and oil lock pieces.
If assembled in reverse, the stroke decreases and the oil lock gets driven into the bottom case where it gets stuck.
If you’re unsure about a bike, always check the service manual when working on it—it reduces mistakes.

Most people prepare the service manual anyway (*´ω｀*)