Eternal Classic KAWASAKI Z1 Inspection Fork OH Engine Oil Change Brake Check (*´ω｀*)

It took a month and a half before we could get started, and I apologize for that.
If we just work on it, everything goes quickly, but there’s just so much volume to deal with…

Well then, here’s the eternal classic Z1. Let’s get the work moving along quickly.

The fork oil is leaking all over, so we’re going to do an overhaul.

It looks like a teppanyaki grill, so let’s be careful about fire during this season.

I really love upright front forks (non-cartridge type).
After all, the structure is extremely simple, so the maintainability is excellent.
I think it meets the necessary performance for city use.

It’s amazing how few parts there are, it really makes you appreciate it.
Let’s do a thorough cleaning and prep work before assembly.

The inner tube wasn’t bent, which is reassuring.

If the stud bolts look dirty, I’ll replace them without hesitation.
Chamfering the threaded end of the stud bolts feels nice.

A mysterious paper gasket was being used.
Instead of scraping the paper gasket aggressively, heating it with fire makes it peel off easily.

Properly prepping the dirty areas makes assembly smooth.
It’s a hidden area, but it feels good mentally.

Using a “ladle” makes installing the stud bolts smooth.
In theory, you can also install them with a combination of a high nut and a steel ball.
For professionals, it’s best to just buy the tool.

Cleaning the threads on the cylinder bolts of thread lock makes installation smooth.
As always, I’m filling the oil seal with fluorine grease.

Vacuum bleeding the fork oil increases reliability.
If you suck too hard, fork oil can end up inside like this, which happens often.

That’s how the front fork is complete.

Let’s check the brake calipers.

Even though we overhauled it before, the operation was a bit sluggish, so I worked on it and worked on it.
There wasn’t much change, so I thought about taking it apart again, but I think it’s okay now.

I also replaced the brake fluid.

It’s interesting that the master float size is the same as this era.
The brake masters on these old bikes tend to spray, so it’s good to put a float in.

Let’s replace the throttle cable and clutch cable.

I want to use the current low-friction type cable.
The throttle cable on this Z is a bit special, and the bracket on the carburetor mounting side needs to be modified or it will interfere.

We managed to clear that hurdle and should have smooth throttle operation now.

I also disassembled the clutch release and lubricated it.

The engine oil is Shell Advance.

I replaced the engine oil and oil filter.
After that, it’s just the inspection and rear drum lining check to complete.

While I had it off, I polished it with Metaling (*´ω｀*)