Another typhoon is approaching. It’s already so hot I don’t even want to ride, and now we’re getting rain on top of it—the worst weather possible. I feel like I want to sink below the surface until we get a more pleasant season.
This time we’re doing a tire replacement and swapping out the Sunstar brake disc &and pads.
This is the last time for the Dunlop α14.
It’s quite a long-lasting tire, isn’t it? Based on inventory status, it seems like it might be discontinued.
SPORTMAX Q5A For now, I’ll wait and see on the new tire until more information circulates.
I’ll remove the tires and wax the inside of the wheel with FW 1. When you finish the inside of the wheel during a tire change, it makes the work much easier next time. It’s all about the little details.
The rear wheel had some wobble overall, though not too much. When I say it wobbles, it sounds pretty serious, but it’s not that bad, so don’t worry.
It’s gotta be Dymag! The heavy spot isn’t at the air valve.
The front was fine, but the rear had a heavy spot about 90 degrees off. As a token of appreciation, I put a thumbs-up sticker there. This is the critical point.
I’ll check the wheel bearing size while I’m at it.
It was so dirty I couldn’t see anything at all. I had to polish it with Scotch-Brite to finally see it—that’s how dirty it was. It’s not grinding badly, but it might be worth considering a replacement depending on timing.
Once you start noticing things, you can’t stop—the cleaning edition!
I cleaned things up while doing inspection and verification. It feels good when you clean parts you can’t normally see.
The swingarm is drooping like crazy, so I’ll check it out.
I’ll remove the bottom of the rear suspension and lift the swingarm by the suspension stroke amount. The swingarm is drooping more than I thought.
I’ll mark it with a paint pen so I never have to do this again. I’ll mark it so I can adjust it myself following the instructions.
The rear damper is also sagging a bit, so let’s plan to replace it when the time is right.
I just realized—how many years do you use an axle shaft for?
It’s a beautiful design that fits the era. That’s Sunstar for you—they really understand what riders want. The outer disc with its rivet design is also very period-correct and lovely.
When I looked into it, I found out it’s not a current product anymore. Interesting.
The Z series has so many variations, so check one-two!
Basically it’s full of traps, so I proceed with check one, check two. Things look similar but are slightly different, or they look original but are reproductions. Just removing and installing doesn’t always work out.
Why are Z series wheels through-bolted? It’s really bad for workability and I hate it.
I also adjusted how far the bolts stick out.
Daytona’s 2696 sintered pads have been renewed. Did the model number change mean something was modified?
It’s really great to have easy-to-get sintered metal pads.
I’ll clean the caliper and use Honda bolts for the mounting bolts.
Lately we stock M10 properly, so if it’s 1.25 pitch we usually have it. The feel of tightening iron bolts is really satisfying.
The look is also perfectly OEM and fits nicely.
I’m the type who offsets the slit positions.
It’s just my personal preference, but when you align the slit positions, you always get that “whoosh!” sound from two pads at once.
Both when braking and coasting, sometimes you get that “thump-thump” wave-like pulsing. Just offsetting them a bit makes a surprising difference—you feel less of that one-pad-at-a-time sensation. If you’ve got a slit disc and something feels a bit off? Try offsetting them—it’s interesting.
ポチップ
