“The Inazuma 1200 oil-cooled Katana is really nice, right?” Front and rear suspension – Scuderia Okumura overhaul request~

The front has been tuned by Okumura with damping adjustment, so I’ll request both front and rear together.

Let’s start removing them.

We’ll protect the wheels well and remove them with the lifter.

I’ve been using the wheel lifter I purchased the other day daily (*´ω｀*) Honestly,
“I’m so glad I bought it~” It’s that kind of tool.

Since there are many beautiful wheels and aftermarket wheels, I can safely “attach and detach” them.
It’s like tempura flour that doesn’t require any huffing and puffing? You can attach and detach wheels with that kind of ease.

It’s also perfect for removing the rear shock.

Basically, the rear shock mounting bolts are under load,
so you need to “lift it slightly and remove the bolts.”

However, if you apply tension with the lifter in the lifting direction, it comes off “smoothly.”
Of course, when installing it too, it slides in “smoothly.”
You want to work as smoothly as possible, right? (*´ω｀*)

The front fork rolls on the Bandit 1200

Suzuki’s 17-inch wheels from this era have incredible front wheel compatibility.
They kept the wheels common,
but created diversity through “disc offset” and “fork span.”

Models where the center bore and PCD changed always seemed to transition into a “new era.”

The rear is fixed with an adjustable prop bar

If you make the prop bar slide-type, “height adjustment” becomes easy.
If you also make a different shape “U-shaped” version, you can handle both “mono and twin”
setups.
Making one is really convenient.
There are products like this being sold: “Rear Shock Prop Bar”
Buying one instead of making it yourself is also a good option (*´ω｀*)

I’ve removed both front and rear and sent them off (*´ω｀*)

Removing, storing, and packing them is quite challenging.
It’ll be on hold like this for 1-2 months (´ー｀)

Can we still do hot pot? It’s cold for March, isn’t it?