On Wednesdays I’m working on the little MK2.
And it’s going pretty well, “things just don’t work out”
I think that’s just how the world is, so I’m making steady progress (*´ω｀*)
The oil level keeps gradually rising. OEM parts really do have that clean performance.
Kawasaki OEM = Mikuni OEM is the flow.
16030-027 Valve Float
This is an old story, but about 100 out of 100 times they don’t work I’ve experienced that.
From my experience, unless carburetor repair parts are completely hopeless, “OEM is the way to go” is the rule.
This carb is Keihin. I do like Mikuni though (*´ω｀*)
This carb is Keihin. The reliability is just different.
The oil level related “precision” is absolutely fantastic.
The relationship between float level and actual oil level is so well designed that from a working perspective “it’s done in one shot, so it’s easy”
Mikuni carbs have “hit or miss” vibes, and “when you miss, you’re really stuck” sometimes happens.
Since Suzuki = Mikuni, if performance doesn’t come out, it’s a reason to be disliked right?
I’ll check and adjust with the Kawasaki OEM oil level gauge 57001-208
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It’s a really excellent tool that converts at 90 degrees.
The carburetor era is in its final stages! Get one while you can!
K-a-n-p-a-k-i? Not a shred of anxiety, nothing but good vibes (*´ω｀*)
To be honest, I wanted to yell “Woohoo!” ( *´艸｀) a few times
but it all worked out in the end.
Carburetor work is addictive once you get into it. Lately there’s been less of it, which is really helpful.
If there’s no problem with the OEM carb, just keep running it as is, I tell people. . . . (´∀｀*)ｳﾌﾌ
Oh, if you handle gasoline, you should definitely have a fire extinguisher on hand.
The common powder type is “seriously terrible” and makes things incredibly messy.
A clean one that doesn’t spray powder is best.
To be continued.
I don’t want to touch the carb during the dry season.
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