
Even though it’s the weekend, I want to make steady progress (*´ω`*)
After decades of use, I’m going to overhaul the rear brake master.


The return port hole diameter of the rear brake master is quite narrow.
If the fluid gets degraded, it can clog—it’s less than 0.4mm.
Those who change their fluid regularly are fine, but if you let the fluid condition deteriorate
and start using it aggressively, you’ll end up with dragging and other serious issues…
If you’ve never seen one before, be careful.


It wasn’t leaking, but there was likely some seeping going on.
Since I was already doing this anyway, I checked it on my own—and I was right!
I’ll process it with the modern power of “wet blasting.”








It came out shiny (*´ω`*)
Wet blasting isa gem that I’d love to see more bike shops adopt.
It saves so much time and cleans beautifully.
Removing the media takes a bit of technique, but it’s such a wonderful tool that I’m constantly amazed by it.


So it turned out nice and clean (*´ω`*)
When the parts you’re assembling are clean, your motivation goes up.
Hide the threads and set at 90 degrees




It’s a non-OEM angle, but… this should probably be better.
You want to reliably transmit the limited stroke.
Brake pads are Metallica


I chose Metallica 7524 because I wanted something with as much punch as possible.
The SPEC03 above it is already discontinued. It’s become a difficult world to choose consumables in…
Gale Speed’s ratio adjustment is precise




The adjustment has a click feel and is precise in 0.25mm increments.
It’s fun to start by turning it to both extremes and then adjusting from there.
The feel“hard to soft”changes at a level you can actually feel.
The only downside: Gale’s master tank bracket is difficult to fabricate


For street riding and normal use, there’s no problem.
If you’re thinking about circuit riding on a naked bike, it’s a bit tedious.
Clamping it together with the mirror is very inefficient.
Plus, it’s too far to take from the master clamp.
In those cases, I go with the set screw method by clamping it over the mirror clamp.




M5*0.8 as large as possible is the safest bet.
If you get the OK, you can drill out the mirror holder side a bit for even better clamping.




So that’s air bleeding and fixing front and rear complete.
Almost there (*´ω`*)















