The best thing about the GSF1200 is “the frame and tank”
Pipe frame work with such beautiful curves is quite rare.
I sometimes think the GS1200SS would have been much better if it had been based on this instead…
Also, “the tank’s sculpting is lovely” you know.
The GSF1200 is quite a difficult individual when it comes to parts.
I think it’s better not to dream big when buying a restoration base.
If you’re going to get one, a well-maintained example is best.
(*´ω｀*) I’ll dig around a bit.
It’s annoying because it won’t fit! So…
The first and last major cleaning?
Since it’s not a spot you remove that frequently, let’s make sure to clean out gravel and such properly.
Ditched Suzuki (*´ω｀*) Just the bolt
SUZUKI [09103-10100] Bolt (10X20)
650 yen… for iron no less…
HONDA Part Number [96300-1002007] Bolt, Flanged 10X20
“ Honda is 55 yen. Yes, 55 yen ”
Since it’s used on engine mounts and such, you can feel confident. Plus it looks cool on the head.
For your reference…
I’m not a big fan of mesh material, so I covered it with a shape-memory braided tube.
A bolt-on steering damper on the side is pretty scary, isn’t it…
The concept is so cool that I’m a bit nervous about it…
*If it loosens, it’s reassuring if the structure prevents it from rotating
Since it wasn’t being used, we removed it.
Oil-cooled head cover won’t come off – a common occurrence
Tapping doesn’t work anywhere.
Since there are 2 pins in the head cover, “I want to apply force upward”
Tapping from the side just damages the head cover.
Sometimes you can remove the cam plugs from 4 locations by pushing from the side,
but when you can’t, try here Tap gently (be nice) ×4 locations
I’m pretty sure it’ll come off 1000% easily I think.
The one that’s particularly troublesome is the Bandit 1200.
Maybe because the Bandit 1200 is a tourer, “there are many units with unnoticed overheating”
The gasket becomes plastic-like and hardens into one solid piece sometimes…
As a last resort, try using this as a reference.
Head cover gasket for the plug hole.
There’s metal inside and it often breaks off and remains on the head side.
It’s best if you can remove it as an assembly! This also comes off with a gentle tap!
I recommend avoiding pulling on it as much as possible.
By the way, if you drop this,
“it always falls into the cam chain tunnel”
Interestingly, it gets a hole-in-one right in the gap between the crank gear and chain. If you drop it, you have to remove the cam! So it becomes a bit of a hassle. Be careful.
You must rescue it or the valve will bend and die, so please be careful.
*I’ve had a customer like that before ( ；∀；)
The cam showed no signs of seizing and was in good condition.
The tappets weren’t significantly out of adjustment, but I re-adjusted them anyway.
It’s in really nice condition, which is great (*´ω｀*)
The hidden areas should be clean too.
It’s kind of superstition, but… “the bike won’t betray you as easily” Well, it’s like a kind of wish you know.
I also gun-coated the bolts.
This is also a kind of wish? Even after assembly is complete, when it’s clean, you can admire it and enjoy the lingering feeling *Compared to our shop
No liquid sealant on oil-cooled head cover gasket (except cam plugs)
By the way, this time it’s different, but I rarely encounter it. Don’t worry
Some people apply it heavily to the ribs for gasket adhesion purposes…
This application is not very effective and removal afterward is a hassle. *We charge customers for this at our shop…
Don’t apply liquid sealant to everything, okay? (*´ω｀*)
The plugs burned cleanly (*´ω｀*) I’ll replace the 2-pole C with JR8B.
For some reason the startup wasn’t great? I thought the starter wasn’t turning, so I polished the terminals.
The starter switch contact is a bit iffy, and “lifting it slightly upward while pressing” makes it 100% reliable.
Carb synchronization and PS adjustment complete – oil-cooled maintenance is done.
We’ll get the inspection passed and take it for a test ride, then make further recommendations!
It’s getting cold again, which is annoying… and there’s so much pollen ( ；∀；)
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