Used Bike Appraisal UP Wave? ZRX1100 Slight Trouble MOTODX Plug Silicon Code Replacement

Something went wrong on the way back (；∀；)
That’s right.

Looking quickly, #3 is running cool
The #3 plug is nicely burnt…
That can’t be right.

Swapped #2 and #3 caps
→Symptoms unchanged
Hmm?
When I swapped #3 and #4 plugs
→#4 is running cool
#1 is running cool
It’s the plugs…
First time seeing this symptom (*´ω｀*)

Misfire = wet image
This kind of thing happens.
Learning every day.

Dual-pole plugs specified for transition-period bikes
I’ve had a bad impression of this plug since way back
Basically I don’t use it for conversions.

Even with oil cooling, from JR8B (single-pole) to JR8C (dual-pole)
I change those to single-pole.
For some reason
“Single-pole seems resistant to problems”
Even if it fouls, you can somehow manage
and get home. That kind of plug.

By the way, with iridium, once it fouls
it basically won’t recover, so I don’t use it.

At first glance it looks like iridium, but
the outer electrode is “D-shaped”
That seems to be the key point.

Resistant to fouling and high durability
Should be a plug you can safely use even on carb bikes

Iridium is compatible but DX is not
This is consideration for using CR8EK (dual-pole)

Basically the same shape, so no problem.
*At your own risk

Reasonable and stable performance and price
When in trouble or unsure, this is it (*´ω｀*)

Actually surprisingly tedious.
Getting the right length and layout is difficult

If you’re going to put in the effort
“Don’t use the stock length and layout”
Plug changes become easier
1-4/2-3 interchangeable
It’s good to set things up for easier removal in the future

Since the cord is soft
to avoid putting undue stress on it
if you don’t make a pilot hole
it surprisingly doesn’t screw in all the way.

Measuring the cap side to be screwed in
“Two points: the tip of the screw and the back”

For example
“20MM to the tip of the screw”
“30MM to the back, let’s say.”
You need to screw in at least 20MM.
If you don’t look at the numbers
it becomes vague.

I temporarily fix each coil one by one
and go back and forth deciding the length and layout, so it’s surprisingly tedious.

P-TOUCH is better than Tepra

• Resistant to chemicals and solvents
  The text doesn’t fade even with acetone, amazing
• No color residue after peeling
  Tepra leaves almost all of it. Cleaning is tedious
• High durability. Properly degrease and apply, text fading is almost nonexistent

It feels quite industrial, but
it’s helpful for everyday use too.

If I could know what coil is used on every bike model
that would be a dream.
What am I saying in the FI/DI era…

Pitch measurement is roughly
“Clamp and subtract the screw diameter”
I think it’s P80.

Air-cooled is different, but with water-cooled or oil-cooled bikes with recessed plug caps
I keep the cord loose.

If the cord is too short
“Plug changes are a pain”
“It’s loose so I want to shorten it” but can’t

Various future-oriented work
might be good to consider.

I had only done minimal polishing before
so I’m going to do it thoroughly and properly!

I’ve been putting up with it until now
but the serviceability is at maximum worst
and why 250…
Can even large hands install it?

Now it can be removed even with the tank on.
I want to use CPC couplers for fuel hoses on all bikes…