GS1000 E/G “BIMOTA SB3”
Looking at that strobe color… “Is that a Yamaha?” It’s a color scheme that makes you want to ask.
This one, “SB = SUZUKI” it is.
Don’t get it wrong.
Now let’s proceed with the work (*´з`)
Oil seeping from around the drain? Checking the issue
Looks like just a tiny bit. I’ve taken care of it (*´з`)
The engine oil is “Shell Advance Ultra 4T 15W-50”
That theory about synthetic oil causing leaks in old bikes—I wonder how true that really is.
I’ve never actually seen a leak caused by that.
I’m a “Michelin fan” these days.
Since it’s a narrow bias tire, I chose the Road Classic.
The feel to the touch is premium quality, and expectations are high (*’▽’)
I’ll apply Plexus to the inside of the wheel and polish it up.
Though I can’t say for sure what the benefit is, “next time around” cleaning should be easier… probably.
After changing tires, always check “tire runout” to make sure it’s correct.
The “bead” might not be fully seated, leaving it in a half-baked state.
In that condition, the tire will “wobble and wobble” in small increments, so
all that “new tire performance” won’t be realized.
If you spin it and think “Hmm, that’s not quite right,” don’t hesitate to use the “bead breaker” again to break the bead, lubricate with tire wax, and try again. I think that’s the way to go.
Michelin tire balance is really quite good. Sometimes as good as radials.
Radials from any maker are pretty decent, but bias tires can be terrible.
“Something feels off with the handling?”
Maybe it’s “a fundamental issue” to begin with. Classic old bike problem (*’▽’)
The wheel bearings are fine.
The hub damper was a bit loose—good thing I checked it (*´з`)
The axle shaft runout is fine.
I cleaned it up just a little bit.
Just because it’s clean doesn’t mean “performance goes up.” But a clean bike makes everyone feel better, and that’s good.
That’s what matters.
So that’s it for the tire change and oil change for now.
To be continued!
