The USB port is TYPE-C only, absolutely.
I’ve patrolled around and gained experience with installation!
Small and high output? That’s reliable.
Small is best for layout too, and water shouldn’t get in easily, I think.
I definitely recommend the Daytona 17213—it’s great!
First, we’ll change the engine oil.
Since it’s water-cooled, I chose Shell Advance Ultra 4T 10W-40.
The drain bolt has a larger hex size, but I went with an HRC unit for it. (¥130)
If you write a review, you can get a novelty item.
This time’s oil is this one. It’s pretty clean and looks good.
We drain it from the front bank’s drain and hose.
I replaced the radiator cap with an NTK.
Whoa! The upper cowl won’t come off…
I stuck the ETC antenna with double-sided tape…
The upper cowl wasn’t supposed to come off? Maybe?
When someone takes it easy, someone else has to struggle… Life is like musical chairs.
Hmm, hmm, hmm… redoing everything would make the story too long, so I just bundled it up neatly.
Maybe another time.
Daytona Motorcycle USB Power, USB-C PD3.0 Compatible, Fast Charging, 18W, iPhone/Android Compatible, 1 Port, 17213
It’s definitely easier to choose TYPE-C for the USB port.
The wiring becomes thinner and smaller, and angled adapters are available too.
Keeping it as short as possible with an angled adapter gives you more layout flexibility, I think.
Unused accessories are sad. (´；ω；`)
Throwing things away is one thing, but these have zero use.
I think they should just leave out the accessories and make them optional… or so I selfishly thought.
Like an outlet where anyone can plug and unplug it. (*´ω｀*)
And shouldn’t aftermarket electrical parts be like that too?
OEM parts are designed to be disassembled and serviced with easy plug-and-play connections.
But aftermarket parts prioritize installation.
They come with a multi-tap and cable ties, so you just install them as instructed.
In the end, someone draws the short straw… I don’t want to be that person… don’t you feel the same?
So don’t include the short straw in the first place.
Always label aftermarket wiring.
So anyone can understand it.
This should be understandable, I think. It’s tough if the OP doesn’t get across…
Oil pressure? Or something?
I’m reading too much into it.
Fixed with Megmix, secured with cable ties
I bonded the base to an SUS304 plate with Megmix.
Even if you hit it with a hammer…
I also secured it with cable ties as a backup.
It looks cool, so I bought a TYPE-C tester before, and it’s been subtly…
It won’t show a reading unless you connect a device… That’s frustrating. (Fail)
Clutch has a clogged nipple. Rear won’t open.
Well, that’s a VTR1000F thing, I guess? I’ll order and replace the rear master tank.
That’s the sure way. No need to struggle pointlessly.
I want to keep saying, “Grind it!”
The undercowl was cracked, so I ground it down roughly. (*´з`)
Now it’s LED lamp time.
Our shop’s tester shows about 5,000 candlepower, so it’s about the same brightness as a moped (2-stroke).
Looks the part, but… the rotating kind…
Base plate goes in first, then you rotate it for a flexible fit. That’s a spec that was trendy a while back.
Forced removal. (*’▽’)
I only trust this one (black).
NOVSIGHT Genuine Product, Industry’s Latest Model First Edition H4 Hi/Lo 55W 12000LM
The reason I choose black is, it’s my guess, but I suspect the tester can confirm the filament more easily? (Subjective) Seeking certainty (for inspection), I’ve been going with black lately.
Boom! (*´з`) Boom! About 40,000 candlepower!
It’s probably outputting even more in reality.
Thanks to this LED, the headlight brightness issue is completely solved, and I’m really grateful for it.
The direct-battery relay is sufficient with just the D-UNIT+.
Tomorrow we’ll do the inspection and replace the rear tank, and it should be finished.
