Speed sensor with aftermarket meter.
What you should avoid is the “magnetic type.”
Installation involves attaching magnets to wear items like brakes and sprockets, so
considering the work involved later, it’s better not to choose that option.
The same goes for shift indicators, so you may need to be careful.
I think the more pulses you can acquire, the better.
One pulse per revolution—if you miss any, the error is huge.
If you get five pulses per revolution instead, you won’t miss all of them, so losses are minimal.
I only install this on customers with clean chain areas, but getting the signal from the drive sprocket gives you a very high pulse count, sits out of the way in the service path, and doesn’t move like the rear wheel does with chain adjustment.
Plus it’s barely visible, so if you can mount it, getting the signal from the drive sprocket is the way to go. *There are sensor length issues too, so we don’t take many of these jobs…
I went with a method of cutting threads into the rear support to secure it.
Things to watch out for when getting the speed sensor from the rear frame side.
With dual shocks, if you get the signal from the shock mount or swingarm, serviceability suffers, and
every time you remove the wheel or adjust the chain, you have to readjust the sensor.
You end up with a custom bike that’s a real pain to maintain.
Rather than just grabbing the signal from wherever it’s easy, it’s better to get it from where you really want it.
Personally, I think a round rod and collar looks cleaner than a slotted plate and is the simplest approach.
It’s secured with a single M6 bolt.
If you’re worried about it coming loose, you can use a longer bolt with a lock washer on the back.
Loosening the bracket lets it pivot, so adjusting from outside to inside is easy.
And when you want to remove the wheel area for maintenance, it’s EASY.
I always work with the technician’s perspective in mind. Just bolting it on without thinking ahead takes a second, sure.
Right now there’s an odd bolt installed, but I’ve left room for flexibility.
If you lay it out so it’s not visible from below, that’s GOOD? GOOGLE.
Waiting on the Deutsch connector (*^-^*)
