When performing Deco-mainte for the first time, it takes a surprising amount of time.
There aren’t necessarily any major problems, but when you think about future efficiency and such, there are often many cases where you can’t just put things back the way they were (‘ω’)ノ
The wheel condition was fine.
The axle shaft condition is also fine.
The wheel bearing condition is fine. If they’ve never been replaced, it might be worth considering replacement in the future. *Open and metal-cover bearings tend to lose grease easily.
The drive chain has significant variation in stretch between different sections. It might be worth considering replacement soon.
The front Nissin caliper piston operation was fine.
The rear is a bit stiff. It’s a good time to consider an OH.
With just a touch, even mud and dirt come right off and it becomes lustrous.
*Don’t use tire shine alone, though.
I was wondering… doesn’t this kind of condition bother you?
I replaced them all. If the count doesn’t match, you might run into problems later when disassembling the front end, so let’s eliminate that possibility.
It’s being held on with effort, but… it smells very dangerous.
I think it’s better to either remove it or install it properly.
The inner tubes have developed spotty rust overall. When doing a fork OH, re-plating will be necessary.
I lubricated the left and right pedals, throttle and cable, speedometer cable, and side stand.
The brake fluid had quite a sharp color to it. I’ve replaced it with Golden Cruiser DOT4.
I’ve replaced the engine oil with Shell Advance Ultra 4T 10W-40.
The base of the Vitaroni Baby Turbo had come loose, so I was asked to check it.
This is a tapping screw, you see. It’s something I eliminated and tightened up properly in the past.
This time I’ve handled it with thread locker as is.
Let’s eliminate unnecessary fasteners where possible.
If you’re going to tighten the rear cowl and mirror plastic, it’s better to use lock nuts.
Apply too much torque and it warps or cracks; apply too little and it naturally loosens.
I think it’s better to do things so problems don’t arise down the road (‘ω’)ノ
This part on the Ninja is sufficient with push rivets. Plus it improves work efficiency and reduces weight.
I noticed something while changing the oil…
It’s in complete contact. I was genuinely impressed by the condition of this hose.
It’s surprisingly holding up okay…
But that’s not the point here. Since the layout can’t be changed, I’ve wrapped it with insulation. This is not good.
Liquid batteries have virtually no advantages in recent years.
Honestly, I think they’re all drawbacks.
• Liquid refilling is a hassle
• You can’t see the fluid level without removing the battery
• Hydrogen gas is released (causing fire, explosion, and corrosion)
• Battery acid (dilute sulfuric acid) causes corrosion
When I went to pull out the battery because it seemed hard to remove, the breather hose had broken.
When this happens, the internal pressure of the battery can’t escape, so the battery can swell up, so be careful.
*The hose has an X-shaped slit, so it’s fairly safe.
When this battery reaches the end of its life, I recommend replacing it with an AGM GEL Pro battery. Pro Select Battery GL-PB14L-A2
YB14L-A2 compatible with GSX1100S, GS1000, GSX-R1100J-N, and GPZ900R (‘ω’)ノ
After that, we’ll install the air filter and take it for a test ride to finish.
