Reliable—oil-cooled Katana.
Not an oil-cooled engine in a GSX1100S, but rather… that’s right
a GSX1200 (Inazuma 1200) dressed in GSX1100S bodywork—a novel concept.
Even stock, it delivers a reassuring 100 ps (74.0 kw) at 8500 rpm and 10 kg⋅m (98.1 N⋅m) at 4500 rpm.
Everyone mistakes it for an oil-cooled GSX1100S—it’s a fun bike like that.
Well, let’s start with the time-consuming gun coat…
We lifted the front and rear, covered the nice Mag wheels with protective tape, and let’s go!
Looking closely… is that a shift indicator pulse pickup? Pretty solid work, actually. I was impressed.
We’re also doing rear master OH and gun coat, so we’ve removed it.
Time passes, and we painted it black. Probably? You like it jet black? So we painted the caliper support black too.
The front collar gets clamped, so we only painted the exposed part.
Let’s clean and lubricate the speedometer gear sliding surfaces too.
We believe in the possibility that all these small, unglamorous tasks add up to maybe 1% improvement…
Good news for those who say this C-ring won’t come out!
If you sharpen a thin screwdriver to a point, you can just poke it and pop it right out. For your reference.
Let’s clean and lubricate the speedometer cable too.
Sometimes… I think about it.
Speedometer cables don’t exist on modern bikes anymore, do they?
We’re drowning in the wave of digitalization. But analog is nice too.
Tire and wheel runout look good.
Radial tires are reassuring. When you see bias tire runout, it’s a bit discouraging. (Depending on the tire…)
Let’s check the tire manufacturing date too.
Sometimes we see surprisingly vintage ones… Be careful in cold winter.
Let’s check the wheel bearings too.
You can kind of tell when they’re really bad or about to go, but the state before that is honestly hard to judge.
You could replace wheel bearings on a schedule based on time or mileage.
But still, modern bearings do great work for just a few hundred yen each—I’m impressed.
【Cleanview】 No-touch UV tire cleaner, shine and protectant
Quick, reliable shine and cleaning—recommended.
*Never use on tires, brakes, or anywhere slippery.
Let’s check disc thickness. The rear is getting close to replacement time.
When replacing discs, it’s best to replace pads at the same time. Time the pad replacement to match disc wear.
Now let’s replace the rear master cup piston.
No tricks or secrets needed. Nissin is reliable.
Of course, the umbrella has closed somewhat.
When that spring tension weakens, maybe a little play develops and it gets a bit loose?
Be careful opening OEM parts and installing them straight away.
Brakes especially are really dangerous. You have to look, measure, and get an OK before you can install.
Front is good, but rear is getting close to spec.
*The rear gets hammered by the chain, so it’ll develop runout.
The pedal has sealed bearings, so we’ll bell-hammer it from the outside.
About this bolt replacement request… the shaft is too long and bottoms out. The mounting part doesn’t have enough width, so we installed the original.
We cleaned and wrung out three calipers. Lately, our customers’ bikes are in excellent condition.
*They’re clean and have few problems! Work goes very smoothly.
We replaced the rear pad pins and springs.
The shift rod setup is… kind of niche?
It’s pushing at quite an angle. We adjusted it with a collar.
That’s all for today.
This typhoon was perfect timing!
No weekend delivery, and nothing coming in, so I got a week’s reprieve.
Though it’s just postponed… we’ll continue.
