I wanted to finish up yesterday and update the blog, but…
the Insta360 One X was acting up, and I just couldn’t stop thinking about it…
Was it that?
I know I should be working, but YouTube activities might… be affected?
So I’m going to carefully check the cause and reason.
Since we did the rear last time, let’s move to the front.
I was asked how the wheel bearings are doing…
The recommendation is to replace them at 20,000 to 30,000 kilometers, and there’s no harm in doing so…
In reality, they last quite a while. But it depends on the use, storage conditions, and how they’re used (loose or tight), so it’s hard to say. Palpation might be the best approach.
The top gets rust protection, and the bottom gets cleaned and lubricated.
Ideally, you want to get at least 50,000 kilometers out of the inner tubes.
If you keep them from rusting and keep them working smoothly, some people get 80,000 or even 100,000 kilometers out of them.
That’s limited to upside-down forks where you can rotate the contact points to change them, though…
With the front lifted, let’s ventilate inside the fork.
If it’s bad, you’ll hear a “whoosh” sound.
The grease around the lever was doing its job too.
Lubricating spray works, but it doesn’t last long. I want grease to stay sticky for the long term.
We basically replace the lock nut every time. (The axle gets replaced as needed.)
Why do we use lock nuts?
I think it’s because it’s a scary place if it comes loose.
Even though the rear linkage was overhauled and the suspension was replaced?
The shaft and nut are falling apart, and even the slider is being reused…
I’m suspicious whether the bearings and sleeves were even changed.
A request to replace the grips.
Replacing motorcycle grips is a hassle, isn’t it?
Honestly, most things I can do at the shop I can’t do at home.
Before it’s a matter of knowing or not knowing, or being able or unable to do something, I think it comes down to equipment and tools.
The annoying part of grip replacement.
Removing the adhesive.
Overall, removing adhesive, double-sided tape, liquid gasket, and paint is tedious work.
Rather than thinking “well, that’s just how it is,” I think every day about how to make things easier for everyone.
Suzuki’s thing is, don’t replace it with aftermarket parts…
I think they designed it so it wouldn’t rotate without adhesive.
Which means you can’t just put it in as is.
I’ve made a simple fixture (like a bicycle stem) to hold the sleeve while grinding it, so I chuck it in there and go with the lathe.
That said, it does wobble a bit, so it ends up with a Scotch finish.
That’s how it turns out. (Coarse finish, sadly.)
We’ve upgraded to the latest version (at our shop).
We found an even thinner one recently, so that’s what we’ve been using.
3M Anti-Slip Tape Type F Clear ← I use this one, but it might be too much for individuals.
I haven’t tried it, but this one might work too.
A paper cutter like a shear? A HANSA guillotine cutter or something like that makes clean cuts.
After cutting, if you round the corners, it doesn’t look like something you bought off the shelf. That’s my aesthetic.
And so…
I think it’s mostly fine. It might even be reusable? We haven’t gotten to the point of doing return work yet, though…
I used to think wire wrapping was the best thing ever…
But as I’ve gotten older…
Twisting and hiding it doesn’t hurt? It creates garbage? More work. What do you think?
We’ll replace the fluid.
That CCI brake fluid! We’re using Golden Cruiser DOT4.
This battery charger is surprisingly useful ← It’s pretty easy to read, which is great.
I really appreciated being taught about this.
Battery replacement was also requested, so we discussed it…
People often ask if Shorai is really the best? But there are definitely pros and cons.
【My personal pros】
・Lighter weight
・Increased battery capacity (less likely to die, longer lasting)
・Longer warranty (it’s a pro-rated warranty, but basically 3 years)
| Usage period (months) | 1–6 months | 7–12 months | 13–24 months | 25–36 months |
| Discount from manufacturer suggested retail price | 100% | 75% | 50% | 25% |
【My personal cons】
・Price is somewhat high
・Requires a dedicated charger
・Terminal shape can be finicky depending on the bike
That’s how it is. In those cases, Daytona batteries are surprisingly good. Since the price is about half, using it for 2–3 years and then replacing it is also an option.
That’s the kind of proposal we made this time.
This is the Honda shift rubber that I learned about from that famous Yamaha craftsman
95011-40000 50 yen, tax excluded… 8φ size
A small thing that makes a big difference. We have a large stock.
We also lubricated the side stand. I’ve been thinking lately…
I really should lubricate the center stand too, but it’s a bit of a hassle.
That’s my daily struggle.
We also cleaned and lubricated around the pedal. There were signs that grease was doing its job. Let’s replace it again.
Did you notice? Lately, aren’t all the rear calipers like this?
The front always has the manufacturer’s own caliper, but the rear is usually Nissin…
Did they stop making them? The minus often can’t be removed, so even Honda uses this one depending on the model: 45203-MCC-006, 210 yen (tax excluded). Compared to the shift rubber from earlier, it feels pricey…
It’s a good idea to check the fuses about once every two years. You might end up crying if you don’t have a spare.
Once in a while, brush out the debris from the key grooves, apply rust preventative oil, and wipe it off.
Your mood when riding might improve by 1 percent.
Don’t little things become stressful?
Like when the cap is stiff to open… Just lubricate inside and out and wipe it off, and it becomes surprisingly smooth.
Apply rust preventative oil to the top of the cap and wipe it off. (It tends to get condensation.)
Confirmed the generated voltage.
The air filter arrived, so we’ll replace it.
It just so happened that the Suzuki OEM was BO, so we ordered from Honda.
Yamaha should work fine too.
I wonder if Kawasaki uses it too?
We replaced the spark plugs.
We synchronized the carburetors, and then we’ll test ride it tomorrow to finish.
