Old manuals are great, you know.
They say to check the actual fuel level carefully.
Basically, the float level is fine too.
When you look at the actual level, you might see things you couldn’t see before.
I want to remove the needle, but it’s stuck tight and won’t come out.
Since the length is the same, I’ll skip this.
The spring is pretty much the same, so that’s good.
We don’t often replace the float valve and seat.
When reusing them, I clean the valve tip really well and polish the seat side with a soft compound, kind of like seat cutting.
I think it’s subtly effective when reusing. *Be careful not to overdo it.
I thought it was a fuel tank coating, but…
it’s more like Devcon. Removing it is risky and it takes a long time to dry.
There’s no choice but to check it this way, quietly.
When I blow air from below, there are bubbles—pukupukupuku—so there must be voids.
Devcon again.
I applied Devcon, let it sit a bit, pulled a vacuum, and left it. The leak stopped completely.
I checked and adjusted the actual fuel level.
Some have worn away from corrosion.
For now, since it doesn’t leak, let’s reuse them. (Waste not, and they look kind of pricey.)
I adjusted the synchronization. Since it’s a lock nut type, I left it at this point.
Oil changed to ELF MOTO4 RACE.
Quiet work that pays off later?
I polished it. The leak is stopped and the exhaust shouldn’t smell bad.
That’s all for this job.
