Well, well—we completed work on this VFR400R NC30 back around May and handed it over. After that, it fell into charging trouble again. I figured it was generating power, so it should be fine, right? But the generator seems to have simply died—that’s the only explanation for the situation. It’s been about four months since late May… Right after intake, I removed the cover and magnet to check inside… and sure enough, it’s completely out. Since the OEM part is discontinued, our repair options are: • rewind it • buy a repro Since we’ve never done either, we decided to go with the repro route. Time passes… The order timing happened to be bad and it was out of stock. After waiting, it finally arrived. Electrex World ↑ It’s interesting, so take a look. When I removed the OEM unit, it was really burned up… I even wondered if it had actually been replaced once before. Anyway, setting that aside. Since it’s a repro, I need to check it or things could go wrong—check one, check two. The clamp and grommet aren’t included, so I’ll reuse them from the old one. Very good. The mounting PCD was fine too. When I peeled back the covering to remove the grommet… it’s incredibly melted. Hmm… the mystery runs deep, I think to myself. Rather than dig into it, I’ll just make an effort to remove this stubborn grommet. Successfully installed (ΦωΦ) Yes! The importance of documenting the new part in photos… please don’t burn up again. I kept wondering if the magnet was weak… but since I couldn’t tell, I just closed the cover and tightened it to 8.5 kilogram-force. Since it’s a three-phase AC generator, A-B A-C B-C I check the AC voltage. Rough measurements are fine. I measure at idle and around 6500 RPM. At idle, it’s stable at AC 18V. At 6500 RPM, it’s around AC 80V—all three are generating properly. I’m pretty relieved it’s putting out that much. At idle it’s 14.1V, and even when I rev it, it stays perfectly stable at 14.2V. That’s reassuring for now.
But it’s a simple structure—the magnet spins around the three-phase coil, generating power, and then the rectifier and regulator handle the rectification and voltage regulation. The customer mentioned light leaking through the gap in the headlight.
In cases like this, the Impulse 400 Type S molding looks like a good fit. Still available—I’m grateful, but when I Google 94591-23E00… it turns out it’s been used on weird small-displacement bikes since way back. Classic Suzuki.
The #10 cowl stay is pretty compact and perfect as a modification base. If you have a 180mm headlight, you should be able to use it on most bikes.
When converting a bike with a rear cowl to a naked style, I’d recommend avoiding fork-clamp headlight stays if possible… or rather, I wish people would. We can’t make rubber parts ourselves—it’s a huge help. Fitted into the cowl like this: That’s how it ends up. The rib height on the cowl side is different, so it comes out like this. Currently waiting on various parts.
