③GSX-R750RK Inspection Front maintenance (inverted to upright conversion) Deco-mainte Other



The more you look at it, the more you think “ugh!” with frustration at how well it’s put together. This GSX-R750RK is just cool every single way.
We’re also handling Deco-mainte work. The rear brake had gotten sticky, so we got a request to inspect it.
Corrosion has progressed quite a bit. Once this comes out again, it won’t go back in—”ugh… hmm…”

It’d be faster to just disassemble it at this point, so how about it?
It’s in pretty good condition.
Ideally, fluid should be changed once a year. Even at most, I’d say every two years is better.
Fluid really is important stuff.
If it hasn’t been disassembled since ’89, that’s good condition, but it turned out it couldn’t handle actual use.
We remove all corrosion through grinding. It becomes smooth and slick, and corrosion should be harder to form.
Polished aluminum actually gets cloudy pretty easily.

I can’t speak to all the details, but that’s been my experience—a matte finish seems to resist clouding better.
Swapping out the nipples too feels nice.
Lately I’ve been wondering if titanium might work here too.
Since it doesn’t cost much, we go with fresh small parts too. Using the later one-piece beta pin reduces the part count and makes attachment and removal a bit easier, I think.
A very thin coat of thread compound on the pad pins prevents corrosion and wear.

*About pad grease
If you’ve seen results from using it, I’d say keep it up. If there’s no real difference or you’re just applying it out of habit, I don’t think it’s really necessary.

Pad grease naturally gets on the caliper piston too.
As you rack up miles, dust sticks to the grease, building up volume, and even when you want to clean the caliper, it’s hard to remove. In the worst case, it can reach the dust seal.

Basically, you clean the caliper with water or hot water. During soak cleaning, water can mix into the grease, and spots you can’t wipe dry can lead to corrosion.

I can’t say it’s absolute, but there’s that possibility, so if pad grease isn’t doing anything, I’d say wipe it off right away.
We used the later housing bolts, so it looks a bit more current now.
This part’s done.
Rear brake master cylinder cup and seal replacement. (Is that what people call an OH?)
As expected from an ’89 unit. The light jelly looks good.
It’s so corroded it won’t come out (;∀;)
Once we dampened it, it came out—glad that worked.
It’s gotten pretty rough and pitted.
After grinding, it looks even better than a new OEM part, so the OH was worth it.

When both function and appearance improve, your love for the bike deepens too, I think. Quietly and deeply.
We’ve got inspection and such to do, but after that it’s just assembly—nothing tricky left.
Work has stalled here for now… please bear with us a bit longer.
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