Z1R-1 Tire Change, Yoshimura, Oil Temperature Gauge Installation, Chain Line Adjustment

.

The rainy season arrived with a bang. It’s a bit chilly rather than the typical damp feeling.
I thought, summer calls for iced coffee! and arranged for a small refrigerator and a Hario dripper and such, but…
The work was finished quite a while ago and I completely forgot to update the blog.
When something looks too clean, I find it a bit scary, but…I’m sure I’m not the only one.
A thick-skinned attitude of “I don’t care at all” is not something I need.

From my long experience, I’ve learned that if there’s something unpleasant about your own bike, you shouldn’t do it to a customer’s either.
And when you protect the area, you can work without worry (reasonably well), so it’s reassuring.

By the way, this is a warmer cover. It’s extremely convenient to have one.
I went with an α14 tire. No photos of the tire change itself…

I’m in the camp that prefers tires without tread.

There are also those who prefer tires with lots of tread on vintage bikes. This looks cool with a narrow rim. With a wider rim, fewer treads look cool, I think. Well, it’s subjective, so choose what you like.
*The superbikes back then were 18-inch slicks, after all.
I installed this super difficult-to-fit spring…if it has this much tension, it’s hard to install, so what’s the point of having two?
Well, that’s that.
The handlebar lock key is missing? Lost? = No lock is a problem, so that’s the flow.
I wasn’t thrilled about drilling, but I managed to extract it without turning it to powder.

Hmm, don’t need it again? My skills leveled up. I always think about this, but…the internet is amazing.
Is it the same as the KSR110 in the back? Suzuki reuses parts aggressively, but Kawasaki doesn’t fall behind either…
I swapped it out.
The customer wanted an oil temperature gauge installed but didn’t want it mounted on the handlebar clamp.
Since it’s just a temperature meter, I managed to mount it below the speedometer. I used titanium at 2mm thickness. It’s just a piece of sheet metal cut and spot welded, so no photos.
The typical way to get the temperature reading is from the gallery on the right side of the engine.
Well, if it’s bolt-on, that’s the place…but it looks ugly. I’m not planning to take it from there on my own Z either. The PT thread sensor is the smallest, so I’ll use that one.
The plan is to modify the oil cooler fitting and get the reading from there.
I chose this spot where there’s plenty of material and the weld bead won’t get in the way.
For the oil cooler takeoff, I fixed it in place just to be safe, fabricated a boss, and welded it to complete the job.
It turned out like this. Maybe it could have been a bit shorter? Various safety measures are necessary.
Just to be safe, I disassembled it, cleaned it thoroughly, and blew it out with compressed air, so rest assured.
And so the oil temperature takeoff is complete—invisible and all.
The offset spacer came back finished. This lets us set the chain line correctly = no tire contact = peace of mind.
The image is a bit hard to see. It’s a hydraulic clutch, and the hose is close…or rather, I noticed it was actually touching, so I need to change the layout.
So I went with routing it on the outside. Remove, install, remove, grind—about five times like that…somehow it worked out.
I happened to have just the right boss, so I fixed it with a clip like this.
About 5mm or so, I’d say…well, safe.
I aligned left and right using the pivot-to-axle measurement.

That wraps up this job.
  • Copied the URL !