Let’s replace the rear caliper seals. I wonder if inspecting and replacing parts counts as an OH?
Hmm… it’s something I think about every day.
The condition was very good. That helps.
The piston rust is minimal too. While we’re at it, let’s swap in an aluminum piston.
I thought it wasn’t rusty, but it turned out to have anodizing on it. Anodizing basically doesn’t conduct electricity, so you can check it with a multimeter.
The aluminum is about 0.07 smaller. Well, since the same caliper comes in aluminum, there’s no problem.
Always inspect the parts. Taking them straight out of the bag and installing them right away is a no-go.
Metal Rubber MR20. With grease, moisture mixes in and when it degrades, it tends to cause corrosion. MR20 is liquid and has excellent lubrication.
Replace the bleeder screw too if you can. It’s not something you replace very often.
Then tighten with a torque wrench and you’re done. Rather than trusting the torque wrench completely, I’d say tighten in several stages first, let it rest, let the threads settle in, and then finish. That’s how I do it.
It might vary from person to person, but unless it’s a nut, the threads on the body side are always used. Not breaking them is the best approach.
