We were asked to perform oil-cooled maintenance as an additional service.
Before removing the generator, you need to remove the sprocket cover.
Even if you mark the shift position, the mark often disappears.
If you write it on the step side, it won’t disappear, and since the outer diameter is large, you won’t have any doubt like “Is it off by one tooth?”
When summer insects are excavated from inside, don’t you feel a subtle sense of wonder? When a dragonfly comes out from inside the ram air duct, it’s a bit surprising.
Let’s do a quick check too. Lock nuts and washers that show signs of loosening.
When replacing, please use new ones. The peace of mind is different.
It may have loosened because I tightened it a bit. For things fixed to the countershaft, power is turned on and off repeatedly, so it’s safe to assume they will loosen.
Lock nuts don’t loosen, or rather, they “don’t loosen and fall off or come loose.”
Lock washers physically “prevent movement and secure the part.”
Together, they establish “safety and security.”
Feel the importance of the threads as you install. If you clean and install without causing damage, it will last longer and you can avoid unnecessary expenses.
I bend the lock washer firmly and flush to the surface in at least two places. If I mark it with a marker, I can check later whether it has loosened.
I lightly coat the shift shaft and clutch push rod with heat-resistant grease such as thread compound. This is done for rust prevention.
Interestingly, where chain grease has accumulated, isn’t the area underneath clean?
That’s the effect we’re aiming for.
I’m not sure if it’s only Suzuki, but when you pull the clutch, you sometimes hear a “crack!” or “pop!” sound from around the release piston. The rod probably isn’t being pushed straight due to the play between the sprocket cover and the release piston mounting. If you install it with play in the right position, the noise should disappear and it should be a bit smoother.
The generator. It has a structure like a rear wheel. It’s a harsh environment for rubber in a very hot location. When this wears, it becomes very noisy at idle.
It makes a “whirring” or “buzzing” sound. The generator is linked with a gear installed behind the primary reduction. If there’s a lot of play, the gear pressed into the primary reduction will also wear, and it becomes very noisy, so I think it’s best to replace it as soon as possible.
It’s certain that the generator coupler also needs to be checked.
If the condition is poor, it becomes hard like plastic. (This time it was still okay.)
Replace it and use new nuts, and crimp them securely.
