Oil-cooled GSX-R1100: here’s what to choose! GSX-R1100K BITO Magtank JB2 Step KIT Axle Shaft Sunstar Brake Disc DID Drive Chain and more

It’s a bit unusual that February 11th, Tuesday, is a national holiday.
Our shop is normally closed Mondays and Tuesdays, but we open on national holidays.

So I came in to work on Tuesday, which means today, Wednesday, we’re closed.
I’ll be uploading the work we did yesterday.

(Free motorcycle appraisal and sale with the rumored KatieX! This is the new way to sell.)

I’m the type who tells the punchline first, right from the finished result.

Since the wheel color is also white, the change is a bit hard to see.
We’re still in the middle of work, so the undercowl isn’t installed yet.

Basically, work is a lot of “prep and cleanup.”

Clean large bolts like the counter shaft carefully too.
It’s not usually a problem area, but we work with the philosophy of “love for the threads.”
I think it’s better when problems don’t happen.

Humble but handy work items that reduce hassle

side-b Shimane Racing Stand Receiver is really excellent.

When a racing boss is installed on the swingarm and used,
the stand hook gets longer front to back, right?
It’s a subtle issue where the throttle shaft won’t come out or tools are hard to use.
With this hook, you can just lift it straight up, so the workability is really good.
Plus, the racing stand doesn’t move, so you can work with confidence.

If you lift the rear wheel with a wheel lifter, the wheel won’t fall off even when you pull the shaft.

If the axle shaft is through-type, you can insert a long screwdriver from the nut side,
and the spacers and supports won’t fall off even when you pull the shaft.

You can remove everything slowly and safely one piece at a time,
so the chance of damaging the wheel is lower.
For even more certainty, it’s better to wrap the wheel with a cover.
*We didn’t wrap it this time since the wheel isn’t needed.

We use usable parts and finish them beautifully

The adjuster nuts were finished nicely with gun coat.

The circlips here tend to fail if they’re old, so we always keep them in stock.

LR023 (240φ) PCD / center / bore hole count are common. Only the thickness is thinner.

The original disc is 6mm and there’s no aftermarket option.
So when it’s 240Φ, we use this LR 023 as a substitute.
Since 6mm becomes 5mm, technically the center moves inward.
The caliper moves inward, so adjust it well with shims.

Also, 220φ LR 022 is for single-piston Pintos and the disc contact surface is narrow, so be careful.
*With a two-piston Pinto caliper, the pad has a wider contact surface.

Bolts: “the no-protrusion detective pure-hearted faction?”

Surprisingly, many aftermarket wheels have disc mounting bolts that stick out.

Everyone working on bikes notices this, but…
cutting them is surprisingly tedious, so people often just leave them as is.
It just looks wrong, so this time I cut them down by 7mm.

We cut with a die and refine with a die.
We just need to protect the cut from rust, so the black paint is Tamiya lacquer.
Nothing special.

Work is all about prep! Don’t make mistakes, don’t search, don’t lose things

If you just throw things into a tray, you end up like the left image.
With a Ring Star case, you can partition by size
and close the lid for storage.

As work progresses, you never have “wait, I have one extra?” or “I’m short one?”
If you have an extra, that’s fine, but
if you’re short, you don’t know if it fell off somewhere or if you never had it.


Managing with a lidded tray is really great for work efficiency.
Try it once.
Since it’s polypropylene, it resists oil and chemicals, so it lasts a long time.

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