
We see a lot of Unicorn-made Inazuma 1200 oil-cooled Katanas.
This one came in for inspection, Deco-mainte, oil-cooled maintenance, and Newtech oil change.

The owner had specific preferences about the stem nut position. I adjusted it while checking the stem movement.

Various parts shine like chrome plating, so care is needed.

Reusable protective coverings are best. I use a camera lens cloth—it’s extremely handy and can even be used for tie-downs during inspection.

I cleaned the speedometer gear while I was at it.

It’s still grease, but it had turned completely black with dirt.

I wiped it clean and applied a light coat of NC100 grease—it feels good. There may not be much practical effect, but every little bit helps.

I removed the speedometer cable, wiped it, and re-oiled it. The benefit is minimal if done only occasionally, but it’s worth doing.

I checked the front and rear axles. Some bikes are in surprisingly bad condition.

I lifted the dust seal and applied oil and cleaned it. A little lubrication makes it this smooth (judging by hand movement of the dust seal)—the seal doesn’t wear, the inner race doesn’t wear, and everyone’s happy.

The wheels are OZ front and rear, so the bearings should be fine.

The calipers are clean and look good.

Round brushes work great for quick caliper cleaning and a nice finish.
You need various sizes, but they clean rotor grooves beautifully too. They come in colorful options, so they look good even in storage.

After cleaning, I apply metal rubber to the pistons and long-term rust preventative to the body, then wipe it down. Since I wash with hot water and soap, the body gets degreased. A minimum rust preventative coating keeps corrosion at bay and maintains a clean, good condition for longer.

I dig through the disc holes endlessly. It doesn’t have any numbing effect, but dust accumulates quite a bit in these holes. Cleaner is always better.

Then I give it a good wipe with brake cleaner and I’m done.

The rear is shiny too, and since it’s an aftermarket wheel, I protect it and remove it.
I see people online mounting and removing brand-new wheels bare all the time, but considering the risk of damage, I prefer to protect them.

Hmm, the inside is clean too.

The rear has quite a bit of dust buildup. It got into the cast texture but didn’t fall out completely. The piston action should be fine.

The rear pads are worn down, so I replaced them.

The support was unfinished, so I polished it to improve its condition.

The wheel bearings are good.

I dug through the rear disc, wiped it, and finished up.

I removed both levers and oiled them. External oiling is fine, but I’d like to disassemble, clean, and reassemble them about once every two years.

I removed the throttle, oiled it, and reassembled it.

The pedal bearings are excellent, but maintenance is difficult.
I can only apply oil from the outside to soak in, but even that brings it back to life considerably.

The side stand gets used every time you mount and dismount, so it deserves attention too.

It’s quite wide, so I added shims to tighten it up.

Lately I replace the air filter after a certain amount of time has passed.
Even if it looks clean, it absorbs gasoline components and oil mist, so it’s definitely in a damp-mask state to some degree.

I performed a fluid change and completed the Deco-mainte.
