The fuses blow from time to time, so let’s check it out.
Since some time has passed, I’m going to go through everything from front to back.
I really hate shared turn signal grounds.
Just a little polish and solder, and it looks clean. The workability is excellent too.
This looks good! Finding what seems to be the cause gives me a little peace of mind.
It was white.
I’ll work through the details bit by bit.
Since tube fuses are problematic, I’ll switch to blade fuses.
This is a fuse holder and headlight relay holder combined.
I’ll use low-profile fuses. For waterproof, compact options with a wide range of amperage settings, Littelfuse and similar brands offer great convenience.
Since I rarely need to handle 20A, I use mini fuses for that.
This low profile is incredible.
I mounted it inside the side cover with good access and no modification to the main body.
Time passes, all operations are complete, and I try to start the engine… but it won’t start?
The kill switch is only getting 1V. Everything else is coming through fine.
The battery is the most upstream point, so I’ll trace downstream from there.
At this connector, it drops to 1V. How is that even possible?
Just this? It seems unbelievable, but once I strip the insulation, current flows perfectly.
It looks quick, but it’s incredibly tedious and time-consuming work.
Now we can be confident.
