I just realized I don’t get Golden Week or summer vacation off. But that’s okay for a self-employed shop like this. No complaints.
Z1R inspection and various small requests. Tire replacement. Front 2.75-18 Rear 4.00-18 A while back, this would have been the standard size, but lately the rear 4.50-18 seems to be the mainstream, and the selection has gotten pretty narrow. Conti RoadAttack 3 CR After carefully weighing durability, grip, and appearance, we settled on the Conti Attack 3 CR. To be honest, I’m not very familiar with Continental, but it seems to be really popular. I’m quite curious about it.
Looking at their website, I thought they should change some of their similar-sounding names. What do you think?
When we mounted them, the tire runout was minimal and we got a really good impression. Can we do anything about the brake disc squeaking so loudly? When the outer surface gets shiny, it seems like squeaking develops.
I wonder if the pad compatibility isn’t good, or if we’re not going hard enough. Fixing squeaking is really difficult. If there were a pad grease that actually eliminated squeaking, it would sell like crazy. We lightly polish and condition the surface. Rotor flex hone (brake disc stone) With stainless discs we can only do light conditioning, but that new-bike feeling of braking with a “shoo-shoo-shoo” sound comes back.
When there’s squeaking, this is quietly effective. (Though it doesn’t always work, so don’t expect miracles.) AP-supplied pads. The surface is all gummy, so we scrape it off once. It gets shiny and the braking feels a bit better. The brake dust that was stuck on solid got polished off and made shiny too. The caliper had a lot of dust buildup. And by the way, the 2696 is surprisingly heavy. Is the stiffness of AP seals a standard thing? Both front and rear axles were fine. The cylinder body has cracks and is flexing. It’s a structurally problematic cylinder. Fluid replacement is also difficult on the 2696. The rear is completely hidden, so no photos. They said 300V oil is good, so we went with 15W-50. We changed the drain plug too. We fabricated an oil window stopper. Since machining it from solid was a pain, we went with a pipe and plate fusion method. We executed it with a co-fastening strategy. If this rubs, we can move it up, counterbore the cover, cut new threads, and set it up so a gasket fits—all good. Plan to add a tandem bar on the right. We made the collar and steel plate and applied gun coat. With this configuration, we co-fasten it with the turn signal. We got a really solid attachment. We replaced the grips. The glass came back from replacement, so we installed it. The lamp lit up with no issues. Takegawa Compact LCD Fuel Meter (external power type) We installed it. With this on, the digital gauge won’t fit, the ETC antenna won’t fit—we’re doing some subtle relocating. No photos of this part. Going back a bit: we replaced the fork oil for the first time in a while. (It’s pretty dirty.) Fork oil replacement timing is tricky, isn’t it?
If the seal starts leaking after you change the fork oil, that’s rough. So should we replace the seal and fork oil as a set? (Using the old method of pulling the seal without disassembling.) Then does that count as an OH or not?
The worries never end. The steering is incredibly loose, which we can’t address here, so we’re asking you to take it back for now. The squeaking is gone from both front and rear. Though if it gets shiny again, it might squeak again. That’s all for this service.
