I learned from an expert somewhere that Honda shift rubbers (rubber?) are cheap and good.
95011-40000 50 yen before tax… 8φ
Starting today, I’m going to swap them out like crazy!
I’ll do a quick one-two-three cleaning around the petcock.
You don’t need to wipe that hard—just a light wipe will lift your spirits.
I’ll scrub the key slot too for rust prevention. I’m hoping it’ll slide in a bit more smoothly.
The oil was still well-preserved. The throttle area is in great shape too, so I’m relieved.
The fuse box location is… you can’t access it without tools.
Hmm, it’s very modern, I’d say…
I mean, a blown fuse is pretty much unheard of these days…
I guess it can’t be helped.
I cleaned and lubricated the side stand too.
Replace the lock nut every time.
The pedal area is disassembled and lubricated too. The oil was still well-preserved, so I’m relieved.
Even the removed parts get a light wipe—it’s kind of a “deep clean.”
I hope it runs better, but even if it’s cleaner, the performance might not improve.
Honda 95011-40000 50 yen before tax… 8φ for most bikes, I’d say.
Meanwhile, Kijima charges 400 yen. Whether you know this or not… the rabbit hole goes deep.
I should have ordered an air filter… this one needs replacing.
I’ll replace the spark plugs too.
I swapped the fluid to Golden Cruiser DOT4.
Even with moisture absorption, performance degrades gradually—durability matters for street riding.
Racing fluid feels great too, but I think it’s worth comparing different options.
A typical one is Brembo LCF-600 PLUS . It might be fun to compare degradation against these.
It was kind of gummy. Bolts should ideally be replaced with new ones every time.
I also charged the battery. After the oil and filter change, we’re done.
