It’s already so clean that . . . you get scared to remove the fairings, right?
It tends to create a vacuum.
You hold your breath and go real slow.
I try not to wear jackets with buttons or zippers that could scratch things.
Things have come full circle and we’ve entered a good era.
Who would have thought you could get AGM/GEL batteries at these prices now . . .
And with a reassuring two-year warranty!
A two-year warranty is amazing. I’m grateful for it.
GL-PB14L-A2
You can swap it directly into an open-type battery (liquid-refill type).
For Suzuki, there’s the GSX1100S and GSX-R1100 (oil-cooled) and so on. Z-series bikes work too.
Liquid batteries are really a hassle to maintain.
You can’t even see the fluid level without removing the battery, and if you wait too long before topping it up, sometimes it’s too late.
Hydrogen gas and dilute sulfuric acid cause corrosion, so if you want a clean setup, go sealed.
If you want something lighter with different capacity, there’s also the Shorai battery option. Choosing the right battery for your needs is important.
Always do an initial charge with a battery charger.
Modern battery chargers are so convenient.
You don’t see those old massive “THE! Battery Charger” units anymore . . .
The regulator and rectifier are about due for replacement . . .
That’s what we were asked.
When you add parts and labor, I think it’s better to go with the latest model.
Everything down to the last bolt is brand new.
This GSX-R has all fasteners on the undercowl, so the work goes fast.
It looks good and is easy on the technician—perfect.
When replacing the harness, we replace the connector too.
If you buy a used GSX-R, you should check the alternator connector.
They’re usually melted. *Same goes for GSF1200.
We remove everything we can.
This gear gets reused due to tooth count, but let’s get a new damper.
First, just to be safe, I check the protrusion one-two.
The Kawasaki stem bearing puller fits really nicely.
Well, as long as it pulls, pick whatever tool works.
The trick with pullers is not to overdo it.
If something won’t come out, cranking it down hard will crack or break things.
Put yourself in the part’s shoes.
I apply some torque, add lubricant, and let it sit. If that doesn’t work, I try the next approach.
I think everything is “No way! Absolutely not! Brute force!”
I was writing up the invoice when it went “crack!” and just came out on its own.
The shaft diameter is small and there’s no keyway, so it’s just a light fit.
Check ① and check ②. Even though we know it works, let’s verify with numbers.
The reverse side shape wasn’t ideal, so we press-fit it with a fuzzy mount (is that an outdated term? Do you remember fuzzy?). (Protrusion already verified.)
Apply grease so the damper moves smoothly.
*The manual specifies Suzuki Molybdenum paste.
Tightened and that’s it for today . . .
Forgot the mounting bolt length changes. (Ordered today.)
Work report
9/28
●Alternator housing removal and swap
●Alternator assembly installation
●Battery charging
