Well, seeing articles like this, custom requests get a “No thank you.”
Customs should go to a custom shop, and machining should be outsourced to a machine shop.
This one’s also chugging along, and I’d like to wrap it up this month or next… but I’m not sure… it’s a real puzzle (；∀；)
Let’s get to it.
First up is a TMR (used) installation request, but I want to check the basics.
I’ve heard firsthand stories about people nearly dying from high-quality carburetors like FCR and TMR… yes, really… I didn’t know that could happen.
If you underestimate motorcycles, you’ll have a really rough time. I feel that every day.
I need to keep my mind sharp and stay focused every single day.
The jet size… the size…
I might have misread it?
182.5? 192.5? Big? Small?
Maybe it’s the latest trend.
Wow, 192.5… hmm, first time I’ve seen one this big. (Amazing.)
The hole on the other side just whooshes through!
Other items, contents and tightening (pay special attention to synchronization and throttle valve).
I checked everything and replaced the float valve O-ring, which was the number-one suspect for trouble.
Next: the important throttle area.
If there’s no particular space constraint, a split-top-and-bottom throttle holder is the way to go.
This is a customer-supplied part, but… I think this is my first time seeing one? It’s so thin.
Now this one…
It’s fixed with two M4 clamp bolts, and the clamp section is extremely thin.
If you squeeze it by hand, it rotates. Is that really okay?
Basically, throttle operation shouldn’t be a problem. But…
When loading the bike, a tie-down could squeeze it and make it rotate, hitting the tank hard.
In case of a crash, the throttle could go wide open.
Considering all these possibilities, an active standard TYPE-1 is the safest bet.
The side-plate-mounted TYPE-2 is a bit of a hassle to remove and install on clip-on bars when space is tight, so if possible… I’d prefer to avoid it (just my opinion).
Please don’t jump at aftermarket parts without thinking. I’d appreciate it if you’d give it some thought.
Most of the world only talks about benefits anyway… (Amazon). So…
There are lots of places to wrap the cable, so marking them for next time makes the work easier.
It’s good to always install the stopper bolt that comes with the throttle holder. Many setups rely on the balance between pull and return.
*Some holders might not have a stopper…
And it’s best to check if it works properly on its own.
There’s also something called a mid-range adjustable throttle cable. I’d recommend avoiding that if possible.
The usable length of the throttle cable (effective length) is the difference between the outer and inner.
If the effective length is too long, you adjust it with the adjuster.
In the old days, you’d cut the inner cable short, but “that’s too much of a hassle! What if it slips out?” From that kind of complaint and desire, this masterpiece was born.
Now, if you use this convenient cable…
First, adjusting it means the outer gets longer, and the total cable length increases.
You want the throttle cable to route smoothly, but a stubborn straight section appears.
The tight space under the tank gets even tighter.
It can compromise operation and serviceability, so please be careful. (Don’t buy it and bring it in, okay?)
The usual fail-safe A + B strategy. Ribs are raised and solid!
I mounted it in a spot that doesn’t interfere with the meter area or serviceability.
A digital gauge bracket was supplied too, but I’m not a fan of co-bolting to the handlebar post, so I rejected it on my own.
I’d like to put a sensor cover on the sensor… it looks subtle at first glance, which is the mark of adult taste. I ran the power in parallel.
Now for the main issue: the engine won’t start.
There are still a few question marks, but it looks like a break before reaching the left switch.
The starter spins and spark is flying, so that should be fine.
I took apart the right switch completely to check, and it was all for nothing…
The HI indicator is constantly lit, but… it’s too mysterious.
The wiring goes through all sorts of places, so it’s a bit scary.
The spigot is long, so we routed it to avoid the case. Lucky!
The muffler bracket position doesn’t line up at all. Why? (；∀；)
Bolt-on customization runs deep too.
