My morning blog stock has run out…
Well, never mind. Since it’s a softer job, please finish it first.
Lately I’ve been struck with a case of not wanting to go for inspection.
Yo.
We’ll replace the Yoshimura engine cover.
The price is pretty much the same as the original now, and it’s harder to crack, so swapping it out might be a good idea?
The oil pressure switch won’t light up anymore, so please note that.
*I modified my Inazuma so the light still comes on, but… (subtle)
The Bandit 1200 K1 is the same way…
Since it’s Watanabe, that’s fine
K1 33120-19C20
K2–6 33120-48B20
That’s how it goes.
Lately I’ve been removing the OP line all the way to the left.
Not that it matters, but… it’s convenient for reuse too, maybe? …or not.
The starter clutch loosens more often than you’d think
Once removed, checking with Check One Two is essential (*’▽’)
We’ll change the engine oil too.
I was worried the oil temperature was getting really high, so I chose ELF MOTO4RACE 10W60.
Here’s a little? good tip (*´з`)
The oil-cooled left engine cover has a really tight fit and is hard to remove…
After you remove it once and lubricate it, you’re fine, but the first time is rough…
With a sketchy-looking sliding hammer, it’s supersonic?
Can you see the two-stage setup?
Just insert the sliding hammer and tap it where it catches.
It’s a Vessel or something screwdriver that I bent and ground down.
When people say they can’t make one… well, that’s how it is… you know?
We’ll clean the chain and lubricate and adjust it.
The durability really is different when you lubricate it regularly…
It doesn’t deteriorate as easily. The wear is more gradual, you know?
The fun? part of carb bikes—we’ll replace the spark plugs.
Replacing the terminal NT4245 at the same time is best.
Since it’s Watanabe, don’t forget—terminal adjustment is essential.
We’ll change the brake fluid and that completes it~
