GS1000 E/G-based “BIMOTA SB3”
Looking at that strobe color… “Is that a Yamaha?” you’d be tempted to ask. The color scheme really does make you wonder.
But this one here, “SB = SUZUKI” indeed.
Don’t get it wrong.
Now let’s get to work (*´з`)
Oil seeping around the drain? Checking the issue now
Looks like just a tiny bit. I’ve taken care of it (*´з`)
The engine oil is “Shell Advance Ultra 4T 15W-50”
You hear that putting synthetic oil in old bikes causes leaks? I’m not sure how true that really is…
I’ve never actually seen a leak caused by that.
I’m a Michelin fan lately.
Since it’s a narrow bias-ply tire, I went with the Road Classic.
The feel of it is premium quality, and my expectations are high (*’▽’)
I’ll Plexus and polish the inside of the wheel.
I can’t say it actually improves performance, but cleaning should be easier next time… probably.
After replacing the tire, always check for tire runout.
The bead might not seat properly and end up in a half-baked state.
In that condition the tire will “wobble, wobble” in small increments, so
all that “new tire performance” goes to waste.
If you spin it and think “Hmm, that’s not quite right,” don’t hesitate to try again: use a bead breaker to break the bead, lubricate with tire wax, and give it another shot. That should do it.
Michelin tire balance is really good—sometimes as good as radials. Radials from most makers are decent enough, but bias-ply tires can be pretty bad.
Radials are generally okay across the board, but bias-ply can be hit or miss.
“Something feels off with the handling?”
Maybe “the tire itself” is the culprit. Classic old-bike stuff (*’▽’)
The wheel bearings are fine.
The hub damper was a bit loose—good thing I checked! (*´з`)
The axle shaft runout is fine.
I cleaned it up just a little.
Cleaning doesn’t “boost performance” or anything.
But everyone feels better when things are clean, and that’s what matters.
So that’s the tire replacement and oil change done for now.
More to come!
