Your companion for cleanliness: “Engine Conditioner”
It’s actually quite useful beyond just when carburetors get corroded.
Since it’s a “strong chemical,” you need to be careful.
Nitrile gloves will get all stretched out and torn up,
so avoid rubber, resin, and paint (*´ω｀*)
We’re going to do an oil-cooled maintenance job today.
Starting with the easy spots gives you that sense of accomplishment.
I think everyone feels the same way.
That feeling of progress is important (*´ω｀*)
First, I want to replace the shift oil seal—it’s kind of a hardcore situation.
It’s pretty intense.
The fastest way is to lay down newspaper and wipe it with an oil-soaked rag.
I try to avoid using parts cleaner.
Looking closely… what’s that?
The chain slider had deteriorated and broken off.
Fortunately it was on the bottom.
The top is bolted on, so we barely made it.
I’m guessing most oil-cooled models are discontinued?
Anyway, everyone hang in there.
After lubricating and heating thoroughly with a Makita heat gun, then tapping gently,
you can remove it without any trouble.
“Tapping”—screwing it in and out—is
risky, so I don’t recommend it.
The success rate is probably“fifty-fifty,”and if it fails, it’s the worst.
You end up in the worst situation where nobody can help you.
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↑A cordless heat gun is the way to go! Super convenient.
We seal fluorine grease inside the lip and install it.
Most oil seals
“go in by hand.”
Just push it straight in.
If it’s clean and you can insert it straight, it’s a part that goes in.
That’s the kind of press-fit tolerance oil seals have.
*Depends on the location.
Hands off! Finish it with a nice shine.
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It’s very important to keep it continuously shiny.
With continuous care, even deep dirt softens and eventually becomes clean.
I also replaced the starter motor O-ring.
The oil-cooled has two types of starter motor O-rings, so be careful.
I also finished up the generator with a shaft-mounted wire brush.
An impact driver is really the best for this job.
If you’re polishing aluminum parts, I definitely recommend it!
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The damper was in good condition too (replaced it).
The generator connector didn’t melt, which was great~
Not sure if it’s beat up or in good shape (*´ω｀*)
The engine damper was surprisingly solid too.
After thoroughly cleaning the case side, I’ll install the Bank6 one.
A subtle technique you can use starting tomorrow?
Dullness and dirt on anodized parts can also be removed with
“Engine Conditioner.”
That’s right!
Just spray it on, let it sit for a few minutes, and wipe it off.
This much is done in a flash (*´ω｀*)Grrr
I’m guessing this bike has never had these removed before.
It’s really effective, so it’s good to keep a bottle on hand for cleaning.
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