To be honest, it’s not that simple.
Most of the time, it’s a combination of multiple factors.
However,
I hope this becomes a clue or lead
to recovery.
I’ll update when I have time. . . .
○ Is the battery healthy? Does it have voltage?
Even new batteries need initial charging.
Manufacturing defects are also possible.
New doesn’t mean absolutely reliable.
Even if the battery is new,
it won’t start without voltage.
When the battery condition is poor,
“charging completes in a flash even at low voltage” or
“it drops under the heavy load of turning the starter”
and such.
ポチップ
This pencil-type tester is the most convenient.
ポチップ
Using a jump starter
to assist the battery externally
gives you peace of mind even on touring trips.
○ Are the battery terminals clean?
Surprisingly overlooked—actually, very much overlooked.
Trust me on this:
use a wire brush to clean
both the front and back contact surfaces.
Basically, there’s nothing but good that can come from it.
ポチップ
These mundane things are extremely important! ♪
○ Could it be… the kill switch is OFF?
I’m sure it’s unlikely, but…
just in case, try toggling “ON-OFF”
and then set it to “ON” again to start!
Could it be the ultimate culprit?
Sidestand switch / Clutch switch
With used bikes,
there’s a high possibility
of tampering.
Trace the wiring
and use the tester mentioned above
to check for “continuity.”
*You’ll need a wiring diagram (*´ω｀*)
