Recently, I’ve been purchasing an Inazuma 1200 and a Zephyr 550
on Yahoo Auctions.
Yay, yay!
Both bikes are in great condition, which makes me really happy.
I want to buy a used bike, but
“Isn’t buying from individuals on Yahoo Auctions scary?”
Well,
everyone feels the same way.
I’m also worried until it arrives.
*Of course, I haven’t done in-person inspections on either bike.
So I’ve written out my buying criteria.
Whether you buy at a shop or on Yahoo Auctions, used is used.
When you buy at a shop, peace of mind comes with it.
“You get warranty and can consult about problems.”
That’s what I mean.
However,
shops don’t always handle issues,
so especially with older used bikes,
there’s always risk.
Bikes that come in for work or maintenance at our shop
also have
potential issues that could arise.
If you want peace of mind as part of the package,
“definitely buy at a shop.”
That’s the golden rule.
Still, I want to
get a good bike as reliably as possible!
This might be somewhat helpful?
Please enjoy it with that in mind.
Check the parts list for major components
and their availability.
This is standard these days.
After buying a used bike,
when you look into it more,
throttle and clutch cables are discontinued,
intake manifold discontinued,
water pump discontinued,
water line discontinued,
air cleaner discontinued,
brake disc discontinued,
pads discontinued,
cock discontinued,
and so on—
I could go on forever.
And if there’s no reproduction part, it’s the worst.
Even in such situations, it doesn’t matter!
“The love you want to overcome it with”
If that’s the case, it’s OK—how much resolve you have
is super important (*´ω｀*)
Carb and
engine are clean.
This is subtly important, and ideally it hasn’t been touched.
The dirt on the carb tells you
about storage and usage conditions.
In a sense, it’s a “barometer of love.”
Carburetors are particularly hard to clean from the outside.
A corroded carb can’t be easily cleaned.
The same goes for engine paint.
There’s a possibility of original carb restoration,
but I don’t think you’d be lucky enough to get something that clean.
It’s one indicator to consider.
Exterior is
original paint.
When buying used exterior parts, this matters.
If it’s original factory paint, in a way it’s reassuring.
It’s proof that nothing bad happened.
In other words, no accidents or body filler.
If you’re buying from someone you know, that’s different.
Choose one without internal coating.
If you can understand the previous owner’s history and
a skilled person applied internal coating,
then
it’s still okay…
even if it’s corroded…
“Basically, coating can’t be removed.”
Tanks with carelessly applied DIY coating
should be considered
disposable.
They can’t even be welded for repair.
If you’ve experienced rust removal on a tank,
you know that rust removal and coating
“is incredibly difficult.”
First, rust removal and coating—
the bottom is still manageable, but
“the ceiling is especially hard.”
If you do it for the first time
and get it perfect on the first try, that’s godly skill.
If the ceiling is rusted,
condensation causes rust juice to drip and ruin the coating again.
If you look at a coated tank with an endoscope, you’ll know immediately.
Sketchy used bikes often hide problems with coating, so be careful.
*If you’re planning to replace the tank anyway, it’s fine.
Check the frame’s shine carefully.
Parts that can’t be replaced are important.
If the original paint is clean,
“the love barometer is high.”
Bikes where the frame has been polished
have high reliability.
The undercarriage being
clean is also important.
A decent condition is fine.
Normally it doesn’t rust that much, so
look at the rear calipers and supports.
A lot of rust and brake dust buildup
tells you about storage and maintenance history.
I want to see under the seat too ♪
Bad bikes have bad insides.
Careless DIY wiring without thinking ahead
is in “spaghetti state,” or
if the harness is modified oddly,
it’s a source of trouble.
Keep risks as low as possible.
- Carb and engine are clean.
- Exterior is original paint.
- Choose one without internal coating.
- Check the frame’s shine carefully.
- The undercarriage being clean is also important.
- I want to see under the seat too ♪
- Mileage doesn’t matter much (lower is better though).
Basically, a condition close to original is safest.
What seems sketchy is
“a somewhat suspicious custom bike”
“a somewhat suspicious restoration.”
Check the attached parts too.
Brake hoses and
master/muffler supports
tell you a lot.
Proper restoration costs
a lot in outsourcing fees.
Something finished halfway
is hard to judge.
Buy with peace of mind
at a shop!
That’s the best!
Yahoo Auctions and Mercari
are okay if you’re willing to take the risk.
The worst thing is
“buying the cheaper, crappier one.”
+
“buying because it’s cheap, not because you want it.”
Even though I can do some work myself,
I don’t touch crappy bikes.
Don’t dream after watching
restoration videos.
*If you want to restore it as a hobby, that’s fine.
What kind of bike do you want,
how you want to finish it,
just look at it,
ride 10,000 km a year,
or just 1,000 km makes a huge difference.
Used is used, so keep risk in mind
and judge accordingly.
Riding a bike you love and want
is the best.
That’s what I think.
Halfway measures are the worst.
