Is demand surging for people wanting to ride the GSX1100S in the end? GSX1100S Inspection Fork OH Caliper/Master OH Nissin Master Replacement

I’ll continue posting.
We’re going to overhaul the front fork and install the calipers and brake masters (*´ω｀*)

Selling bikes is a hassle, but “If you want to add one bike, reduce one!” That’s the lesson

Let’s smoothly overhaul the front fork

I really love front forks without cartridge damping adjustment
It’s simple yet sufficient and exciting.

There was no bending of the inner tube.
The left inner tube has some spot rust, so if we disassemble it again next time, re-plating might be good.

Cylinder bolts are always new.
Clean them with a tap and get them to slide in smoothly by hand.
That way torque management won’t become vague.

In the lip groove of the oil seal, fluorine grease is sealed in during assembly.
This work is surprisingly effective. We rarely see the angel’s halo (slight fork oil seepage) anymore.
Fluorine grease has good lubricity and doesn’t allow oil to pass through, so it’s positive in many ways.

Basically, it’s better if no oil leaks at all.

It’s quite expensive, but it’s much better than having oil leak and needing to redo the work.
I try to use it up within a year.

Makita’s vacuum pump is excellent! It dramatically improves reliability

Honestly, you can’t tell if there’s air left in the front fork.
After all, it’ll eventually rise to the top anyway, right? That’s the thinking.

Plus, since there’s no cartridge, the difference is surprisingly hard to notice.
But if possible, I want to be satisfied that air bleeding is properly complete.
That’s when having a vacuum pump gives you a lot of peace of mind I think.
You can use it for various other jobs too, so having one really changes your life!

Variable fork springs have top and bottom, so be careful.
The thinner the fork diameter, the more the oil level changes, so please note. *I’ve engraved UP on the spring.

Of course, the inner tube is also polished on a lathe, so it’s less prone to leaking

Brake master is better new than overhauled

Originally, an RC 30 type was installed, but
looking at the price, it’s cheaper than overhauling, so I chose this one.
ADFM-1001-1SR

The brake lever dial now has 6 stages for finer adjustment.
The lever comes in silver and black, so you can choose your preference.

Before installing the new piston, if you put metal rubber inside the piston and operate it,
it should move smoothly and the feel should come out easily

That’s how the front is basically complete.
Tomorrow, I’ll overhaul the rear brake master and rear caliper, get the inspection done, and we’re finished.

By the way,
if you’re stuck without rear brake master overhaul parts, check out the blog!