It’s super hot, isn’t it? (*´ω｀*) Even in this rural area covered in dirt, it’s this hot, so I wonder what’s happening in the asphalt jungle of Tokyo??
It’s really nice not having unnecessary backlog. Finishing a few bikes and having new ones come in—this kind of flow is the best. So I’d like to keep things moving smoothly like this.
It’s a bit heavy, but since it’s my “final bike,” I’m going to maintain it properly.
Thanks to M-TECH lately, oil-cooled users are getting quite a bit of help. They’re releasing various reproduction parts, and both users and shops are really grateful.
Honestly, it’s not a model that sells in huge numbers. In a sense, this is a genre that can’t exist without user support. “If you decide to replace it, buy it ahead of time.” If sales momentum is poor, lineup discontinuation is possible, and pricing might be reconsidered.
“If you replace it now, you’ll be fine while you’re riding it.” Please click away with that feeling in mind.
GSX-R1100M/N Reproduction Main Harness MTSR-366-41C
It’s surprising that the price isn’t double the SUZUKI original. What’s surprisingly difficult about a main harness is “connector colors and types,” “wire colors and gauges,” “various terminals.” Matching these as closely as possible to the original takes quite a bit of money and effort.
Strike while the iron is hot! Get that harness for summer break, please!
Unlike the 1980s, there aren’t any mysterious electrical circuits trying to make things convenient. True to its racer-like full-fairing bike. With such a simple harness and electrical system, it’s really appreciated.
What I struggle with most is Kawasaki’s 1980s models, which are especially tedious. I find them difficult. The GPZ series’ mysterious junction boxes and systems that try to use various things by switching relays, combined with hard-to-read service manuals. I think simplicity is best when it comes to electrical systems.
Oil-cooled GSX-R series (up to GSF1200) – check the alternator connector carefully
As time passes, it usually melts like this. One step before charging failure = stalling somewhere that’s what it means (*´ω｀*)
Maybe it was a premonition—I was sensing some kind of problem.
The main harness is routed back and forth from around the white tape. I wasn’t taught by anyone, but I have a feeling that white tape is the starting point.
Suzuki motorcycle harness replacement is surprisingly smooth. Partly because I’m used to it, but I think it’s really standard wiring.
First is cleaning, second is cleaning, there’s no third or fourth, and fifth is cleaning
Only the technician can polish when the fairings are off. I want to keep it as clean as possible.
It’s not like I’m polishing for praise or out of customer service spirit. “I notice the most things while cleaning.” And I feel good working on it too, so there’s only good things about it.
As for aluminum corrosion, it’s subtle, but engine conditioner and Scotch-Brite polish remove it quite well.
Of course, apply it lightly to the Scotch-Brite and be careful not to get it on plastics or rubber.
Always inspect everything! Comparing new and old is a must!
Both OEM and reproduction parts always involve human hands in the manufacturing process. Just checking a little before assembly greatly increases your peace of mind.
Having optional power and ground at the head and tail is really appreciated. Frankly, just having this makes installing the D-UNITWR much cleaner.
You need to be aware that the color differs from the OEM harness.
Then just stretch it out.
By the way, harness replacement isn’t that difficult. Installing and arranging the small parts is more tedious.
There’s a diode inside the harness. This isn’t a place you’d normally remove, so it’s good to secure it with heat shrink tubing and such.
The igniter mounting rubber is irrational and deteriorating, so using thicker Velcro to secure it is totally fine. Leaving it loose is the worst thing.
The timing for replacing the ignition coil is tricky
It might be a good time to replace it, but for now I’ll reuse it.
If possible, replacing these Phillips screws improves serviceability. If reusing the coil, clean the connection terminals thoroughly.
Next time when you remove something, “no inspection needed” makes it efficient. Once you mark it properly, future work becomes really easy and is considerate to everyone.
If the thread is holding, it basically won’t come out even if you pull.
If it comes out easily with a light pull, the threads inside are worn and no longer holding. In that case, cut about 10-15mm and screw it back in fresh for better reliability.
Ideally, replacing the plug wires with silicone would be great, but this Suzuki OEM ignition coil is basically non-disassemblable.
You’d need to heat it and release the tabs, but the risk is high, so it’s better not to touch it.
Also, the tape is Brother P-touch! Not Tepra. Tepra is weak to solvents and leaves color residue when the tape is removed, so it’s not ideal for bikes. Always use P-touch, please. I always use 9mm tape
Black would be ideal, but it’s hard to get, so white it is.
What’s up, Suzuki? Why is the main ground being supplied??
33860-06B12 Most models have discontinued main grounds, so why is the oil-cooled version suddenly coming out??
Well, I can order it normally, so I’m really grateful. The 1200 series is basically extinct. The 1200 is actually newer model-year-wise… Globally, the sales volume might be smaller.
For the main ground, place it where it’s easy to maintain and always remove the paint. Both the main harness and main ground basically ignore the OEM layout.
Ease of routing and serviceability and avoiding rubbing or contact is the best approach.
By the way, this main ground connector is critical. If it comes loose or melts, it alone causes serious problems.
Replacing the main ground is much more reliable than doing mysterious grounding mods.
GSX-R has a system where the bracket and light come off together
I find it annoying so I remove the mirrors, but you don’t have to. Just M8×2 bolts/sub-harness connector/horn wiring and the front comes right off. It might seem like poor serviceability at first, but it’s actually really good.
Anyway, if you’re interested in a harness, stock up on one.
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