Despite being so small, it has 5 circuits plus 1. When reusing a fuse box on an older vehicle, this is perfect. The only downside is that the mounting method is quite awkward.
The main body has a tab, so press it there to pull out the terminal. There’s a place where it’s dual-pole, so it’s a bit hard to pull out there.
This is the stock fuse box for the GS1000S. You can feel the era in its unnecessarily large design. It’s amazing how much progress has been made since the 90s.
I struggled quite a bit with the mounting method before finally deciding (*´ω｀*)
I scraped off the existing plastic bracket and used “Megmix + cable ties” which is quite a primitive method. This is the only way that’s simple, strong, and reliably secure
It’s caught on the wall of the plate side, so one tie is enough.
I also made stickers using P-touch. You really can’t think about and make these kinds of things without time.
These small details, when done properly, really make it look stock. I’ll say it again—it’s not Tepra, it’s P-touch! P-touch is stronger against chemical solvents, so if you’re unsure, definitely go with P-touch
This is how I installed it. I really wanted to mount it horizontally, so I struggled quite a bit. If it were vertical, it would be much easier, but the appearance would be terrible.
The stock fuse connector had also melted, so the timing was perfect. With older vehicles, it’s a common occurrence where one thing after another comes up.
Previously, the carb OH and intake manifold were supposed to be new?
Indeed, there are signs of replacement. The condition is very good. However, looking at it now, the aluminum base seems quite thin.
I checked it and put it back. I made a small adjustment, so the secondary air leak feeling is gone.
Since plugging and unplugging the fuel system is tedious, I made an extension connector. Now I don’t have to struggle when removing and installing the fuel tank.
LED headlight bulb is my favorite NOVSIGHT
Ever since this LED headlight bulb came out, I haven’t had to worry about light output during inspections. Direct relay wiring seems nostalgic now. Our old headlight tester shows about 40,000 candelas, so I think it’s putting out 45,000 to 50,000.
The quality of an LED headlight bulb depends on “light output and cut-off line” being most important. Next is “having a clear difference between high and low beam” If this high/low difference is small, during inspection “adjusting for high beam makes low beam too high” often happens. Also, if you adjust the low beam to just the right height in town, “you can’t illuminate far ahead.”
It needs to be an LED bulb that can be handled like a regular H4 bulb. Also, when you switch to LED bulbs, power consumption decreases, so please use all that generated electricity. If you have excess, it puts strain on various parts.
You do need to remove the upper cowl to ride it, but length-wise it’s just barely safe. I don’t think American-style bikes would fit, but most motorcycles that come to our shop should be fine.
All that’s left is to get the inspection and swap out the melted connector.
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