People sometimes ask me, “How did the number of customers change after moving to Chiba?” Honestly, it feels like it dropped to about two-thirds… or really, half.
You might think, “Wait, is that really okay?” But honestly, the feeling I get is [very good]. The real question is whether to chase customer numbers or focus on the density per bike (customer value).
Since I’m running this solo, there’s an absolute limit to how much one person can handle in a day. Back in Tokyo, I had to work in a tight space, so I had no choice but to speed up the intake and output cycle. “Clear space for the next bike, so push heavy maintenance to next time.” Repeat that and you end up in an endless loop where work never finishes. Then emergency inspections, non-runners, and accident repairs come flying in, plans fall apart, and I have to turn away new customers.
Now I can take my time with each bike and work in a relaxed, enjoyable way. That’s the ideal setup. To keep doing work you love long-term, a stress-free environment is everything. That’s a lesson I learned from twenty-some years in Tokyo. That said, if I’d started out here in rural Boso from the beginning, I’d definitely have gone under… Running a business really is tough ( `ー´)ノ
Four spark plugs on a twin! “Whoa! Twin plugs… that’s amazing…!” The kind of thing that makes you exclaim out loud.
And the way the direct ignition coils are fixed is intense. “I absolutely don’t want this to come loose and fall out!” You can feel the designer’s strong will and determination so clearly that the bolt fastening is completely overkill (laugh).
Ground wires are strung everywhere, both here and there, and I really felt it: “Ah, this is a modern electronically controlled, noise-suppressed bike…” When you’re used to the simple head area of carb bikes, this high density is overwhelming every time ( `ー´)ノ
Looking at the plugs I removed… modern fuel-injected bikes are incredibly clean!
Unlike carb bikes, there’s almost no variation between rich and lean, so electrode wear and extreme fouling don’t happen, and at 10,000 to 20,000 km they’re in great condition.
I understand the impulse to “just replace all plugs at every inspection,” but honestly you don’t need to be that neurotic about it. Especially on models like this where direct ignition is a pain to take apart. Check the condition carefully and use what’s good until it’s really done—that’s the smartest approach ( `ー´)ノ
The name is way too long… CPR8EB9
I numbered them so the next time around we can work faster.
I’ll say it again… if you don’t want regrets, definitely get a Brother P-touch. The color doesn’t fade, and it’s super resistant to chemicals and solvents.
Inverted forks are close to the ground = prone to rust
The inside especially rusts easily. Give it a wipe with a rag now and then.
Even at low mileage, there’s chipping and some deep rust. If it leaks, re-plating or replacement is better.
Wipe the tires now and then and check them
Is anything embedded in it? Any fine cracks? Uneven wear or cupping? Wheel runout or bead lift? How many millimeters of tread left? When was it made? What brand are you running?
“Tire inspection” sounds like a hassle, but just wiping the surface with a rag before a tour or while washing is enough.
Just by touching and wiping, you’ll spot pebbles, tiny nails, and cracks you might have missed. Your only lifeline to the road. The peace of mind when you ride is completely different ( `ー´)ノ
…Korea. The inner race looks a bit thin… hmm, I thought, and checked the condition and part number. When we replace it, I’d like to go with NTN or similar.
The brake disc thickness is good. The front is 4.5 mm… MIN is 4.00 mm.
I cleaned the brake discs thoroughly and lightly sanded the pads.
There was deep rust in a few spots on the caliper pistons. I cleaned it off, but it’ll probably rust again. *Don’t worry about it too much. The action is very good—MOS calipers are excellent brakes.
After washing the calipers, give them a light coat of rust preventative. Degreased surfaces invite corrosion. A light silicone spray or a no-touch polish makes a huge difference in how long they last and how shiny they look. *Only when you’ve taken them apart and washed them. Make sure to wipe thoroughly—it’s dangerous otherwise.
The backing plate got wet-blasted too. When parts are clean at that level, it really tightens things up.
I swapped in the chromoly shaft the owner brought (*´ω｀*)
Shaft drive is smooth
I panicked at first because the wheel wouldn’t come off. The new shaft drive is really solid.
The hub damper is normal? Feels like a real bike, which is nice. The condition was good.
When you’re working on a model for the first time, watch out for these “gotcha” traps.
Both front and rear have interesting structures, and if you don’t notice the oddness—”Wait, how does this lock?”—and just assemble it, it can come loose or break parts while riding, which is genuinely dangerous.
Once you understand the structure, it’s “oh, I see,” but even so, service manuals are always… (laugh). In the end, it all comes down to your own eyes and hands to read the logic of the structure ( `ー´)ノ
The brake fluid has all been replaced with Golden Cruiser. It’s tucked away pretty deep…
Then I lubricated all the moving parts so they slide smoothly.
Coolant and radiator cap replacement
The light blue coolant is lovely… I protected it, but it spilled into the tray anyway, so I removed it and cleaned it up.
You can replace the radiator cap every four years or so. The step and rubber packing harden. It rarely leaks, but it doesn’t cost much. Peace of mind is worth it.
This gas jug that’s been around for 300 cycles is the best. It has a valve, and the hose is thin. When you want to top off a little, it’s p-e-r-f-e-c-t.
The charging voltage is fine too (*´ω｀*)
Puzzling over STORM Plastic Guards
There’s a mounting base that goes unused… mystery. It took me a while to figure that out.
I was glad I could download the instructions online.
It rattles no matter what. It’s a structural issue… There’s nothing I can do about it, so I put foam on the guard side.
When applying double-sided tape like this, “easy to peel off and non-invasive is the golden rule” If you focus only on sticking it on, you’ll regret it later
Big, but a very good bike. Feels like you can go anywhere
The suspension is soft, so even on my test route it rides easily. Crack the throttle and it surges with torque—before you know it, you’re going fast.
This time, with the Brembo RCS master, the clutch is light and the brakes are easy to modulate with ABS. I ended up keeping it for about three months, but it’s all done now!
ポチップ
