Basically, I don’t remove the exhaust pipe.
I don’t touch it unless absolutely necessary… especially not stainless steel that’s been on for decades.
But here’s the thing – why bolts?
The benefits are… engine removal? Exhaust removal? Flange flexibility? I suppose.
I looked into it a bit seriously.
OEM parts are still Honda after all! ( *´艸｀)
Stud image “left is insertion”.
Basically, the part number 92900-080■■0B – the ■■ is the protruding length.
Hmm, that’s easy to understand…
Just a few dozen yen per piece… wonderful Honda.
Why I chose 4 pieces is… a mystery (*´ω｀*)
Just in case – “show the threads some love”
One problem came up…
Under-tube side too tight for the tap to fit = had to buy a long tap ( ；∀；)
I’ll clean up after and assemble.
Too tight for the stud bolt insertion tool to fit (homemade)
Can be made DIY with a high nut + set screw + steel ball.
No stopper for the steel ball, so be careful not to drop it.
↓Generally you use this to insert it (‘Д’)
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Check the flange thickness! Choose based on bolt protrusion
You can also use Kawasaki OEM to handle it.
This hides things a bit even if the bolt length isn’t perfect, so it’s good.
Flanged or flanged lock nuts work too.
With the original bolts if you don’t apply proper torque “they loosen quickly”
But if the flange is thin it deforms that balance is extremely difficult to achieve.
Being able to use lock nuts is very advantageous
If the flange doesn’t deform and there’s no exhaust leak that’s perfect, right?
I did it this time since I had the opportunity to remove it but it’s a hassle so don’t ask me to do it. *Do it yourself
well I plan to do all my Suzuki bikes this way (*´ω｀*)
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