GSX-R750RK. Inspection, Front Fork OH, Engine Oil Change

Carburetor overflow is dripping.
It happens occasionally, so please keep an eye on it.

Let’s do a light OH with cleaning and adjustment.

Anyway, it’s been a while since mounting bolts wouldn’t come out. Five out of eight bolts!
I had to tap them out with a chisel, which always increases the risk.

I’m nervous the whole time thinking the body might crack.
Plus, we get paid extra for bolt removal!

The float chamber was in good condition with no rust.

I chronically have a rich-running problem, and I really dislike this power jet, so I’m eliminating it using a #0 jet. It’s a part from the 750L.

It’s optional, but polishing it now will feel really nice going forward.

I think about it too: “Ugh, what a hassle.”
But if it were my own bike, would I do it or not? When I think about it that way and make a choice that avoids double work and regret, I can always feel satisfied with the work I’ve done.

The brake pad wear was minimal. (Image is after cleaning.) It’s reassuring to check the spring length too.

The oil level was all over the place and a bit tricky.
Honestly, even if it’s off to some degree, you probably won’t feel it.

Bikes don’t always run on flat ground, so the tolerance is pretty wide.
The reason I check and adjust it every time is that I want “a reference point.”
I want to reduce any potential worries. That’s all.

Drawing one clean line gives you peace of mind.

The tank has no rust (aluminum tank),

so I’ll install a genuine Mikuni debris filter.

It sits in the fuel line and is excellent quality, but absolutely never use it on a rusty bike.

Worst case, it clogs and causes low flow. It’s just to keep large debris out.

The large BST has a ring in front of the MJ.
Since it’s a funnel setup, both the NJ and JN have been changed to different parts.

The needle is visible from the MJ, but it runs, so I guess it’s okay.
It’s quite a specialized setup.


That’s how it all came together!

Tomorrow I’ll assemble it, sync the carbs, and check the muffler for exhaust leaks.
The Yoshimura hand-bent race titanium pipe (slip-on) gets loose. (Including the bonnet pipe.)

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