Endangered species out of nowhere? GSF1200 Mysterious ailment? Blowing fuses Sunstar Works Expaund Rear disc 220φ conversion GS1200 rear caliper OH + aluminum piston Fluid exchange Oil change

When will the rainy season arrive in the Kanto region? We’re already in full summer heat mode.

Will we hit 40 degrees this year? Anyway, continuing from yesterday.

The meter looks nostalgic? An AIM-MXL is installed, so we’ll mount the sensor.

When making brackets, we use a two-piece structure so it’s “fail-proof and hassle-free.”
If you get the vehicle speed sensor from the rear via the caliper support or similar, it’s easier down the road.
If you bolt it directly to the swingarm, you’ll have to adjust the sensor every time you remove the wheel or adjust the chain.
When installing aftermarket parts (custom work), you have to think about what comes after, or removal labor costs will add up. From the shop’s perspective, that’s actually nice! (‘ω’)

And since the sensor bracket is accessible from above, wheel removal isn’t a pain either.

Back in the day I thought an integrated caliper support looked cool, but as you get older, you prefer less hassle.

We’ll fill it with ELF MOTO4 RACE 10W-60 engine oil.

For summer oil cooling, it’s solid and reliable.

The rear is bled out, so let’s also change the front fluid.

Well, that’s where the thinking and results work ends.

Now let’s look into the mysterious fuse that blew but isn’t blowing now.
Looking at the wiring diagram, it’s a single path, so I’m wondering if that’s even possible…

You just have to look carefully from end to end.
There’s no such thing as the occult, so let’s methodically check one-two.

I peeled back all the places where the harness tape on the neck was fraying.
Found it! Yay! (*^-^*)

Can you see it? This one.
The white wire (headlight LO side) insulation has rubbed and exposed a bit of the conductor.

You might think “that’s all?” but even a single exposed conductor can blow a fuse.

Don’t underestimate wiring!

For example, this is wiring from a different bike when soldering and extending.

Sumitube F(Z) is honestly risky.
Denka Electron Sanichi CC-3006 is better even if it’s a bit thicker and more reliable.

The adhesive melts during shrinking, so it holds securely.
I also use CC-3006 on male terminal insulation. No need to stock separate insulation, and it doesn’t slip either—pretty handy.

I also charged the battery.

The disc (;゚∀゚)=3 panting

Definitely! With this opportunity~ next is a test ride and completion. If all goes well… (‘ω’)ノ



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