[GSX1200S] The Hottest Bike Right Now! Installing “Super Now” Clip-on Handlebars on the Unicorn Oil-Cooled Katana

Replacing clip-on handlebars on a motorcycle is quite a hassle, isn’t it?
First, you have to lift the front end so it spins freely before you can even start.

After struggling with all the contact points, you finally take it for a test ride! Hmm?? It’s not what I imagined??
That’s right. We’re all standing on the shoulders of giants.
Basically, following what pioneers have already tested is the most efficient and lowest-risk approach.
*However, since everyone’s preferences and body types differ, blindly copying is a no-go.

So with that in mind, let’s install the rumored Super Now clip-on handlebars.

The appeal: Freedom of adjustment / Safety design / Price

The structure is a simple 3-piece design.
The 43mm fork clamp can be adjusted up and down slightly by changing its orientation
The handlebar mount can be adjusted forward/backward slightly by changing its position

While the adjustment range is limited, “having too many adjustments can actually be a hassle”
A narrower range actually makes it easier to choose.

Safety point #2.
The handlebar side has an escape route with a set screw to prevent rotation.
The M6 clamp section also has one bolt escape hole to prevent rotation.

I don’t trust clip-on handlebars at all, but with this design, I might actually use it.
If you’ve been using aftermarket aluminum clip-ons for decades, you really should be careful.

The memory marks on the fork clamp are incredibly helpful.
With M6 mount bosses on both sides, you can also mount a master cylinder reservoir or oil temperature gauge if you like.

Looking at the handlebar adjustment range

You can move it about half a handlebar width.

By swapping the fork clamp sides, you can adjust the height slightly.

This is incredibly important. Which side of the fork clamp do you tighten from?

Depending on the bike,
for the Inazuma 1200 oil-cooled Katana, accessing from the headlight side is ideal.

Surprisingly, this isn’t common in aftermarket products…
With smooth tool access to the fork clamp, adjustments become much more comfortable.

Secured firmly with Daytona bar end repair parts

Finally, we have access to such nice parts.
Using this really makes a difference.

If you can make a spacer, it’s good to create one that prevents the bar end from moving even if you push it.

I’m actually the type who pushes on customers’ bar ends.
But sadly, most of the ones I’ve installed myself end up… ( ；∀；)

The grips are the popular Yoshimura brand.

The clock was mounted on the M6 boss.

The master cylinder reservoir bracket was cut, re-welded, bent, and reused after wet blasting.

A rough reference diagram with questionable accuracy ( ；∀；)

It came forward about 1.5 bar widths and dropped.

If you want to raise it further, you’ll need to negotiate directly with the Now team.
If you want to pull it in closer, you’ll need to change the handlebar stopper.
Be aware that pulling it in will reduce your steering angle.

And here’s the finished result (*´ω｀*)
Let’s ride it in this state for now and fine-tune any further changes later.

We also checked for any vibration issues.
So that’s the completion!

Oh, we also did a tire change… I’ll post that separately.