The aerodynamic parts are attached, and the sharpness at the tip is incredible.
Ahead of its time? (Aerodynamic parts)
Don’t take “It’s okay to go slow!” at face value.
Because it’s the customer’s kindness. Hmm~ (ΦωΦ)
It’s quite an old manufacturing date, so please be careful.
The disc rotor thickness is no problem. It does have a somewhat record-like appearance though.
We also greased up the brake and clutch levers.
Let’s clean the throttle and handlebar too.
On the handlebar, apply a light oil film—just a thin coat for rust prevention. About one-third of what’s shown in the left image is fine.
Front fork cleaning and rust prevention. We lifted the front and opened the cap to ventilate.
Remove the side stand and grease it up. For areas where dropout is a problem (which is usually everywhere), we replace the self-locking washer every time.
We also greased up both the left and right pedals.
Chain cleaning, lubrication, and adjustment. When removing the rear wheel, cleaning the inside makes things easier for everyone next time.
If you think it looks dirty, just do a light wipe. Continuing to wipe lightly rather than doing an intensive cleaning will give you noticeable results.
Main key cleaning and the fuel cap wouldn’t open—that was scary!
Occasional rust prevention and lubrication will greatly reduce the strain on the key.
Speedometer cable cleaning and greasing. During inspection, removing and checking the fuses will give you extra peace of mind.
The axle shaft runout was no problem.
Tire and wheel runout are no problem.
Wheel bearings are currently no problem.
The rear caliper pin area had severe corrosion, so we replaced it.
Caliper piston operation is a bit stiff. It’s still okay for now, but we should probably consider an overhaul or a different caliper soon.
Here’s another one of those “I wish I didn’t have to do this” jobs. How much potential can we pull out of a used bike? That’s what we’re wrestling with every day.
When discs get stepped or look like vinyl records, the rolling does feel heavier. (To some extent it’s unavoidable.)
So we decided to give the surface a polish and re-seat it. That should do the trick.
After polishing, we’ll wash it with a high-pressure washer, so we don’t need to drill holes.
By the way, discs with large center bores can’t be chucked. (Round shapes only.)
The push-and-pull feel is like that sound after a disc replacement—that lightness.
Squeaking should improve too. (Though it wasn’t happening before.)
We cleaned the fender underside too.
Coolant should be changed every couple of years. We reused the radiator cap.
We’ve switched the fluid to CCI Golden Cruiser DOT.
The air filter should be replaced next time. We also charged the battery.
Work complete!
