Every time it rains, we get closer to winter. The pleasant weather is only brief.
Better than the heat, but the cold is troublesome too…
Tires become slippery and batteries weaken. Everyone, please be careful!
The parts have arrived, so let’s get them installed.
*I accidentally ordered four pad pins? (；∀；) Why?
The more I look at it, the more it resembles the original. Well, that’s only natural.
Just barely made it!
Two of the clutch release cover bolts are missing… I was worried they might be broken, but they just flew off.
Out of four bolts, two are gone and the remaining two were about to come loose too, so we got lucky.
Using new nuts and lock washers gives peace of mind.
Kawasaki can crimp a lot of them… this time there were three bent ones.
*I remember some MotoGP vehicles had all of them crimped… for safety and security, I suppose.
Since I’m not great at cleaning, I apply Slrecon coating to exposed iron parts.
It barely runs off and is great for rust prevention too.
Plate press-fit width and pin crimp diameter by the numbers. I don’t chase the 100s range (overdoing it is risky).
Checking by the numbers gives a different sense of security. I want to keep the work as close to spec as possible.
We’re doing tedious work in this day and age. The step nut is reversed, but the boot hooks into this recess…
With a lock nut, you wouldn’t need the cotter pin or boot… or so I think.
Let’s replace the hub damper too.
If the chain and sprockets are new but we’re losing power here, that’s not ideal.
The right hand and rear wheel becoming one… that kind of feel? What do you think?
Hub damper and front sprocket play check.
The inside is very clean and needs no work, which is much appreciated.
The rear axle runout looks good too.
Let’s replace the brake pads too. When possible, I basically go with RK-MAX sintered metal pads. They work well with stainless steel discs and I think the braking and noise are both reliable.
Something I learned recently.
When replacing pads or cleaning the caliper, it’s better to replace the boots at the same time.
The insides can be full of debris, rust, torn, or hardened.
Single-piston calipers depend on smooth slide action. Smooth brake input and return feel really nice.
The caliper is in this condition. Not much rust and the action is average, nothing bad.
The fluid has been replaced with CCI Golden Cruiser DOT4.
If the master edge is corroded, stone it with an oilstone for peace of mind.
I basically replace the master cap bolt with a new one every time.
Finally, we degrease the brake disc and prepare to welcome the new pads.
After a test ride, we’re done.
