Bandit 1200 Yoshimura Slip-On Muffler Replacement, Nissin Radial Brake Master Replacement, Fork Oil Change and Stem Lubrication Adjustment

It’s hot out there!

If it were just dry and sunny, I could manage, but

when the humidity is maxed out, it gets pretty rough. And honestly, masks don’t help.

We have air conditioning, but when I’m working, I think a little HOT is about the right temperature these days.
Since the shop is a bit cramped, I’m having folks leave as soon as their work is done.

We switched to this one. The sound got quieter too, so the inspection and the neighbors are happy.

I thought about making a fancier center stand stopper, but…

it’s pretty tedious. Plus, I don’t have thick stainless steel plate, so I was spending a ridiculous amount of time stacking two pieces and welding all the way around.

I went with a simple hook-and-bolt mechanism instead.

That’s how it is. Center stand stoppers are surprisingly tricky to figure out.

We swapped the old Nissin radial master for a new one.

Our philosophy is that if you’re doing an overhaul, you replace it.

Don’t you find that old Nissin radial masters sometimes lose feel during a fluid change?

Soft and squishy—squeeze it a bit and it’s fixed. That’s the image.

We’re getting requests for stem bearing work soon, but…

I think once you do it, re-lubrication and adjustment will keep it good for several more thousand kilometers. *It might last even longer.

I think the sweet spot is right after the seals and bearings are new and have broken in.

Maintenance exists to keep that sweet spot going as long as possible.


How long ago was that? Newtech NC100 grease really does have good durability, low viscosity for smooth operation, and it’s heat-resistant so it doesn’t leak out—meaning the bearings last longer.
If you’re ever unsure about grease, keeping this on hand is probably a safe bet.


The race is in good condition, so we can reuse it with confidence.

Apply NC100 generously and assemble.

We changed the fork oil. The dirt was a bit dark.
We blended it with Newtech synthetic oil and replaced it.

We lift the dust seal and apply rust protection and lubrication.

For fork oil air bleeding, we stroke it well and then use a vacuum pump to do it properly.

Skipping the fender underside and similar areas makes cleanup faster.

When disassembling the front, assemble while checking that all the components operate smoothly.

We applied Gun Coat to all the little bits.

The sound became gentler and the handling more natural.
The fun of riding went up.

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