The world seems to be gradually recovering its flow, doesn’t it?
Traffic is picking up and logistics feel a bit faster too, don’t you think?
I didn’t hate this laid-back feeling, so I’m not sure if I should be thinking this way or not…
When COVID was spreading, I found myself keenly realizing again that “Tokyo really moves fast—time, work, money, everything flows quickly.” How about you all?
The logos from this era are really cool, you know? Truly full of style.
The fork is leaking, so it’s natural to want to clean it up while we’re at it.
We can handle it in-house from start to finish, so it’s quick and good.
Heading over to the machine shop… Using a stripper to peel things off first saves time and is good.
This stripper is really gentle, you know.
I need to use it all up…
The bearings were completely dry on grease.
There were no sharp scratches, so we’ll lubricate and reassemble.
Next time when we clean up the stem, we could replace it too.
Let’s apply Newtech NC100 grease and reassemble.
In the meantime, I applied Gun Coat to various parts. Just cleaning up the heads of used bolts makes them tighten up nicely.
After some time passes like this… when I check, it’s all soft and floaty.
Like everything else, basically we wipe it down. (We rinse at the end, though.)
I’d like to think about the environment a bit… or so it feels.
When you peel it off, the inside is surprisingly clean.
The clear coat basically yellows, so just peeling it off makes a big difference.
Corrosion had progressed a bit too.
Time flows on, as they say, though it’s just today…
We’ve done quite a bit of anti-aging.
While working, I keep asking myself, “If this were my own bike, what would be reasonable?”
I hope my standards aren’t too low.
Now let’s reassemble.
Just having one of these Ring Star cases on hand really boosts convenience.
• Bolts and nuts can be stored as-is by disassembly location
• When there are many replacement parts, you can organize them separately
↑For reference~
It’s new, but let’s check just in case. Seeing the condition in numbers gives you peace of mind.
The cylinder bolts are special, so it’s good to replace them while they’re out.
M14*P1.5
Above the oil lock, springs W/S or W/S can fit, so be careful.
This is how the oil lock goes in.
[If reversed]
If it’s reversed, it restricts stroke and the oil lock deforms too, so be very careful.
Doing a vacuum bleed for air removal might increase reliability too.
Surprisingly, lots of tiny bubbles come up.
We also cleaned up the front fender.
Let’s check the runout of the axle shaft too.
A thin 15mm diameter.
Lubricate the speedometer cable too and it’ll last longer.
We’ll change the engine oil and filter.
This time it’s Newtech NC50 10W-50.
When the cowl side bolt positioning is bad, loosen the upper cowl stay.
“Getting along with the play” sometimes makes things surprisingly smooth.
We’d like to replace the PDF if we find one in good condition.
After that, we test ride and we’re done. Wow, that went faster than expected, come to think of it.
