Real story: Motorcycle inspection blind spots? Failed. These points were flagged too. A reference for custom parts and used bike purchases?

Want to swap in aftermarket and custom parts! Already swapped them! Will the inspection go smoothly after that?
Some non-compliant parts are circulating in the market. Not having trouble at inspection and getting it passed as-is is the mature and smart approach.

I’ve excerpted things inspectors told me, warnings I received, and cases I heard from colleagues in the industry.
For those doing user inspections too, here’s a reference.

Road transport vehicle safety standards please check the Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism website.

List

  • Bulb turn signal area/flash rate
  • Turn signal color: orange (orange ✓) yellow (yellow ✗)
  • Adhesive turn signal area
  • Headlight color: two lights (left and right different colors) bluish
  • Additional lighting visible from the rear
  • Indicator lamp
  • LED circuit board tail light & turn signal
  • Rearview mirror area
  • Shift pattern
  • Switch box markings faint or invisible
  • Key cylinder ON / OFF / P / LOCK markings
  • Frame number / engine number
  • Axle shaft cotter pin / lock nut
  • Handlebar lock
  • Wheel JWL marking
  • Headlight always-on switchable to ON / OFF
  • Exhaust secondary air cancel
  • Drive chain tension
  • Pannier case or carrier dimensions length / width
  • Protrusions / sharp objects
  • Exhaust gas test BC / EBL sub-con / full-con installation

Details

  • Bulb turn signal area/flash rate
  • Color = orange
  • Lens = clear OK
  • Flash count = 60–120 times/minute
  • Lens spacing (pitch) = front (240 mm or more) rear (150 mm or more)
  • Brightness = 10 W–60 W
  • Lighting area = 7 cm 2 or more
  • Note: e-marked LED = those certified by brightness have no area requirement
  • Note: Sequential turn signal LED = those certified by brightness have no area requirement
What about yellow LED? . . . I’m not sure. It smells a bit gray to me.
Adhesive turn signal: depending on mounting position, it may not be acceptable. It’s better to ensure the area = 7 cm 2 is secured at the position.
Headlight

Headlights are the toughest part of motorcycle inspection.

  • Brightness = 15,000 cd or more
  • Yellow bulb (vehicles manufactured before 2005 are OK)
  • Blue = not allowed (HID requires caution)
  • Two-light setup: symmetric left and right from vehicle center (size may differ)
  • Two-light setup: left and right color tone must be the same (similar)
  • Lens condition = cracks, chips, cut pattern (right-hand traffic) not allowed

However, for vehicles manufactured on or after October 2020, low beam is measured as follows:
(UN R98, R112, R113 compliant vehicles are also subject if manufactured on or after June 2015)

  1. Cutoff line below horizontal plane
  2. Peak luminous intensity 5,000 cd or more
  3. (Transitional measure: if 2 is non-compliant) high beam luminous intensity 15,000 cd or more

(Reference) ECE regulations related to headlight inspection
· R98: HID light source headlight regulation
· R112: asymmetric beam distribution regulation
· R113: two-wheeler symmetric beam distribution regulation

Vehicles equipped with so-called new light sources, LED and HID, require attention to luminous intensity, beam distribution, and light color.

Lighting visible from the rear is not allowed except as listed below.
  • Tail & brake light
  • Turn signal
  • License plate light
  • Back light
Indicator lamp.
All marked ones must light up or they fail.
LED circuit board tail light/turn signal
Basically multiple bulbs are installed. If even one is burned out, it counts as a bulb failure.
Rearview mirror area
  • Before December 31, 2006 (Heisei 18): manufactured vehicles = no specification ✓
  • From January 1, 2007 (Heisei 19) onward: manufactured vehicles = specification applies, see below
Shift pattern: be careful when replacing sprocket covers. Marker pen may be rejected.
Switch box markings faint or invisible. In such cases, making and applying a label maker label is a good idea.
Key cylinder markings (ON/OFF/LOCK/P) are basically required.
Frame number/engine number
Be careful if frame paint obscures them. For Kawasaki Z-series and J-series, it’s better to check before purchase. If stamped by anyone other than the manufacturer or by authority, permanent cancellation may prevent continued inspection.
If you think, “Wow, this Z is cheap,” some caution is needed.
Nut-fixed axle: lock nut / cotter pin / wire ring—one of these is required.
Handlebar lock: 100% required. If the front end is not adapted from another bike, a cable lock can substitute.
JWL marking: it’s rarely checked, but it’s always required. When buying used parts or a used bike with aftermarket wheels already installed, be careful.
Always-on switchable to ON/OFF (Heisei 9 / October 1, 1997 onward type-approved always-on ) is not allowed. Keeping it on is OK.
Secondary air system cancel. Removal of exhaust recirculation equipment is not allowed.
It’s not visible, so it’s not that common, but . . .
Drive chain tension: be careful if the suspension sags after replacing the rear end. You need to be able to explain it if asked.
Dimensions: width, height, length
  • Width ±2 cm: be careful when replacing handlebars
  • Length +3 cm: be careful with pannier cases and carriers—probably out
  • Height +4 cm: be careful removing/attaching fairings and windscreens
Broken levers or installation of sharp parts are not allowed
Exhaust: types starting with BC/EBL require caution. With carbureted bikes, the PS opening can cause large changes.
  • OEM muffler with catalyst: only government-certified muffler (with gas report) is allowed
  • No catalyst: OK if it passes the gas test. (No catalyst is rare.)
  • After sub-con/full-con installation, you should know the CO/HC at idle
  • Copied the URL !