It’s just a simple plate, but it should have outstanding functionality. Forgot to adjust brightness… well, it’s okay. This is how it all comes together. I reused the igniter bracket. The rubber-insertion method is the best. It’s convenient to attach and detach, and since it floats, it gets a ◎. Reducing the number of parts should also reduce the tools you need. If you fix everything with bolts and nuts, workability suffers, so it’s better to use welded nuts or similar. As a compromise, POP rivets (rivet gun). It’s a two-point fix, so I added dampers to the spots where it contacts the frame. A part I thought was great on the V-Strom 650 before comes in handy now… life’s funny that way. That’s how it turned out. You can’t see it at all ( ；∀；) Most of what we do here is like that. Using a warmer cover when removing wheels makes it less likely to get scratched. Customers might think “oh, how thoughtful!” when they see it, which increases the possibility. I replaced the titanium nuts (non-locking) with iron flange lock nuts. Titanium would be fine too, but I don’t trust thread locker. The damper condition should be fine. Wheel bearings are fine too. Tire and wheel runout were also fine. The torque rod was contacting the tire, so they asked me to check it. It was squeaking when pushing and pulling. Looking at it, there was definitely contact. Even when I adjusted the left-right distance between the axle and pivot, it still rubbed, so I lent them the torque rod.
If you bend that ribbed one and reuse it, it might look cool. I cleaned and lubricated the chain too. I did a little touch-up. It’s subtle, but the machine looks much cleaner. I lubricated the side stand too. Of course, I replaced the lock nut. Front tire and wheel should be fine. The brake calipers were clean, so that’s reassuring. (I did an overhaul on the rear.) Let’s clean the discs too. Front and rear axle shafts are fine too. I cleaned the key too. I cleaned and rust-proofed the inside of the cap. Fuse check. There was one spare missing, so I added one. I think the air filter could be replaced when the time comes. I lubricated the left and right levers. I lubricated the left and right pedals. The lock nut wasn’t holding, so I replaced it with a bolt (iron, electroless nickel). When I installed it, they said “hmm, it’s not touching?” so I increased the thickness. I turned it on the lathe and machined it, Making something with the right outer diameter and installing it is better than using washers—both appearance and serviceability are improved. Reservoir hose discontinued—a pretty common problem. Reservoir hoses get discontinued quite often. I wanted to adapt one, but the angle didn’t match, so I adapted the master side outlet too to solve it. It extends out the back, With a little flex at the top, Simple and plain. Of course, it also clears the rear fender. I got the digital tachometer power from the left switch. I balanced the carburetors. I’ll replace the diaphragm. I replaced the fluid front and rear with Golden Cruiser DOT4.
