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②GSX-R750 GR71 Inspection (New Plan) Caliper maintenance, Deco-mainte, Clutch OH, etc.

Everyday Events (Work Log)



An oven gets convenient when it’s bigger. Small but big? Huh?
Paint baking isn’t our main business, so it’s more like “too small for a main job/too big for a gap”—that kind of nuance?
Lately it feels like I’m working on calipers and masters all the time.
Plus they’re old, so the condition is pretty rough.

The equipment investment is really paying off!
That’s pretty much how it goes with old stuff—everyone thinks “ugh!!!” when they see it. Rather than complaining, I just move forward with a positive attitude.
The nasty oil grime is caked on thick, so I soak it in hot water and industrial alkaline cleaner.

The piston just won’t come out. It was completely stuck.
Every time work doesn’t flow smoothly, I think “I need to make a better tool.”

I’m always asking myself: is it “bad equipment” or “low skill and experience”?

Anyway, I managed to extract it and check inside. The condition is definitely interesting.
Poor brake caliper piston action usually means the seal is old (deformed/hardened) or the seal groove is corroded and the piston gets stuck.

Even if I scrub the caliper and massage the piston, there’s a limit. I think it’s faster and gives better results to just do an OH instead of spending all that time.
After grinding, I dry it in the oven, blow it with air, check it, and finally start assembly.
There’s some corrosion, but it shouldn’t affect performance. I stripped all the old paint and finished it as natural polished aluminum.
Paint looks nice when you apply it, but you have to strip it again later—this finish is easier to maintain.
Whether it’ll need another OH someday is unclear, but…
Even though it’s been OHed, areas like the nipple taper contact point can still be rusty and untreated, so watch out.
I’ll do the OH with a piston kit. Always inspect the seals and pistons.

Whenever humans are involved, mistakes can happen. “Is it the replacement part’s fault or the technician’s fault?” It’s definitely the latter. I don’t want to end up making excuses.
When I apply CCI metal rubber to the seal groove and assemble it, the piston moves so smoothly it’s amazing.
*It might be better to avoid grease-based products in general.
·Grease doesn’t dissolve and stays behind, and after it degrades it still stays—requiring disassembly.
·When cleaning the caliper, water and grease mix—there’s a risk of corrosion inside the caliper groove.
It’s not absolute, but that’s what experience tells me.
The early oil-cooled DECA piston front and the later oil-cooled rear caliper pad pin clip work together as-is. *I thought the pads might work too, but they don’t.
Only the person doing the work gets excited about this, but… I finish the customer’s bike to make my own work easier.
Suzuki 69142-46E01 Clip, pad pin
The brake pads are Vesrah sintered metal
Vesrah VD-331JL
I polished the brake union and other parts, applied guncoat, and reused them. When I do the work myself and I’m happy with the finish, it feels great.

A texture that holds up to close-up photos is always challenging.
Anyway, the brakes are done.
By the way, it was leaking, so I did the master OH the same way… The content’s the same so I’ll skip the details.
Everyday Events (Work Log)
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  2. Everyday Events (Work Log)
  3. ②GSX-R750 GR71 Inspection (New Plan) Caliper maintenance, Deco-mainte, Clutch OH, etc.