Before delivery… click… wait, the battery? Dead.
When I checked the charging more carefully… hmm, something’s off.
We’ll swap in a MOSFET regulator, a Shorai battery, and blade fuses.
First we fit it up, cut away, drill holes, and we’re done.
We welded the nuts in place for easy removal and installation.
When installed, it looks like this. You can barely see the holes… which might be the stylish part?
Nothing fancy, just simple and clean…
A really nice Honda OEM blade fuse box.
I thought… this might work well on oil-cooled bikes too?
It’s nice that you can see inside when you open the cover. Wouldn’t it work on Z-series bikes too?
So that’s the layout we went with. The bottom one is optional at 5A.
We also switched the fuel gauge connector to a coupler for easier disconnect and reconnect.
The sponge goes on the battery side… it’s a hassle to peel off when you’re modifying or painting the battery case later.
I bet a lot of people think, “What a waste of time peeling off this adhesive.”
It’s smart to tape off any unused positive terminals.
Watch out for the “I’m not doing anything that sloppy” types. Drop a screwdriver or wrench and it lands just right on the terminals… and that’s a disaster.
And if the carb overflows on top of that… just imagining it is a nightmare.
It’s never happened to me, but I always imagine the worst-case scenario.
We check the charging voltage and leakage current, and we’re done.
The carb’s running great! The ignition is firing strong and steady!!!
