.
The inner tubes came back from re-plating, so let’s assemble the forks.
They’ve come back looking brand new. The surface finish is excellent.
The runout is perfect and I’m really happy about it.
We’re doing a quality check, so we’re measuring with the inner tube holder held loosely. Better than OEM. Excellent.
Now… the oil lock won’t come out? A common issue.
Diagram of reverse assembly.
It fits in like this, which is good. It’s a relief we weren’t using the full stroke.
Always order new spring washers each time. (If the previous ones are unclear.)
Three on one side. The oil lock step is quite pronounced.
One on the other side.
Remove the step and polish it clean.
Always clean thoroughly so you can apply proper torque, and remove any thread locker.
Replace bolts and gaskets every time.
The oil seal is reliable SKF.
There’s no specific inner metal specification, but if the inner and outer diameters match, you can use an alternative. Since it would be costly, I don’t think many parts are offered individually for each model.
There are tons of 41φ sizes, so you can quickly find one from samples.
They corrode surprisingly easily, so a quick spray of rust preventative oil is good.
After some sloshing, then vacuum bleed. It’s quite effective.
There’s quite a bit of bubbling. If you carefully bleed the air during disassembly, you’ll be fine.
